Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black

Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black

Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt The price of fabric changes at scale too. If Stanley, Roche, and Romy could triple the Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt and by the same token and size of their businesses, perhaps their prices would come down a little, but that isn’t their goal. The larger a company gets, the more difficult it becomes to keep track of the supply chain; we all remember how certain well-known brands didn’t even know their clothes were being produced in the collapsed Rana Plaza factory. Understanding scale also explains why a higher price doesn’t always equate to better fabrics and fair labor. A polyester dress might retail for $400 because the label produced it in small quantities and paid its workers—but it’s still polyester, and you shouldn’t waste $400 on something so environmentally damaging. Or maybe the brand made it in huge quantities and used cheap labor, but hiked the price to convince you it’s an elevated product. There’s always going to be confusion when it comes to price, and some brands are always going to value “brand equity” over their workforces. The only way you’ll really know if a price is worth your hard-earned cash is by digging deeper and demanding transparency from the brands you support. On the luxury side, designers and retailers are actively discussing how to become open and honest about price and quality. By explaining the origin of their fabrics, how their clothes are made, and who makes them, the hope is that customers will shop more confidently and will be motivated to invest in the story, not just the product or trend. In theory, that concept of mindful consumption could eventually trickle down to the high street. It isn’t going to fix climate change or fashion’s murky supply chain, but it’s the best way we can begin to make a difference—and by “we,” I mean those of us in the privileged position of having money to spend and the headspace to refine our shopping habits. The common rebuttal to the “fewer, better” approach is that some people can’t afford to pay more for clothes, and that’s absolutely true. But lower-income shoppers aren’t the ones creating the mess; they aren’t buying a new dress every week and then throwing it out. The people abusing the system are the ones who could afford to buy fewer, higher-quality items, and it’s our responsibility to use our power and influence to raise the bar for everyone else. Buy this shirt:  Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Another designer might cut her costs by using cheaper fabrics or cheaper labor, but Stanley is committed to her family-run factory in Delhi, India, and won’t compromise on high-quality, organic fabrics. The only way she could lower her prices would be to take less profit or transition her business to a direct-to-consumer model, eliminating the Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Besides,I will do this retail markup. (Given the state of department stores, many of her peers are likely thinking the same thing.) In the meantime, the best thing she can do is educate her customers about precisely why her new hand-embroidered organic cotton dress costs $550. Stanley openly shared the cost breakdown here: $24 covers the organic cotton and dyes; the intricate handwork comes in at $48, because it took an embroiderer a full day to make the dress; production labor, including sewing, pattern-making, sampling, finishing, and packing, was $48; trims, including the labels, hang tag, and dust bag, were $5; shipping was $8; and duties were $24. Her total cost came to $157, and in order to keep the final price lower, she took just a 1.59x margin, bumping the wholesale price to $250. (This means Stanley would earn $93 in profit when a store orders the dress.) With the typical retail margin of 2.2x, the final price tag on the rack in a boutique is $550. I’ve been trying to make it a point to tell the story of my clothes, but it’s hard to be honest and say, ‘This is my cost, this is how much I make on this piece, this is why you should support my brand and the people who made it,’” Stanley says. “I love going to a store, and I have friends who have boutiques and work so hard. They deserve to make that margin, but the retail markup is really why clothes get so expensive. That’s where I get stuck.” If you’re of the “buy less, buy better” mentality, it isn’t hard to justify the higher price. Plenty of Stanley’s customers are investment-minded and care about her commitment to ethical, sustainable, small-batch production, but some still need to be convinced that it’s “worth” buying one of her dresses instead of five cheaper versions. Lucette Romy, the founder of The Wylde, an organic label handmade in Bali, has had similar conversations with her customers about the higher price of organic cotton, botanical dyes, and dignified labor. “But it often isn’t enough to change their minds,” she says. So she found another way to get the point across: Every item on her site comes with a cost-per-wear breakdown. Her new organic cotton dress goes for 260 Australian dollars, or $178, but if you wear it 10 times, it’s $18 per wear. Buy this shirt:  Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt There’s merit in investing in timeless pieces like quality jewelry and clothing that are built to last (even though purchasing a Cartier watch may not always be plausible). In the Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt moreover I will buy this long run, it’s more advantageous both economically and for the environment to invest in fewer, more expensive pieces crafted to withstand time, rather than indulging in trend-forward pieces that may not hold up physically or aesthetically after a few wears. Buying quality jewelry is not just about achieving a good cost-per-wear ratio— investment pieces are about longevity too. A classic piece that feels perfectly aligned with your style tends to age with grace, making it feel even more valuable as time presses on. Maybe the watch or ring you buy now will become a family heirloom, or maybe it’s something you’ll want to wear for decades. A classic trench coat will always be a wardrobe staple in transitional weather. From quality jewelry to clothing, here are the investment pieces that will stand the test of time and may even be history in the making. Read that again, and the idea of a T-shirt being “worth” $5 might seem preposterous, if not criminal. How is it possible that all of those materials, logistics, and people amount to just dollars or cents? Many of those costs are fixed; the price of cotton isn’t negotiable, even at scale. The person who made the T-shirt, on the other hand, is a lot easier to exploit. It would be reckless to claim that every low-priced good was made by an underpaid laborer, but it’s also just simple math. “It really blows my mind,” Ryan Roche said on a recent call. “I can crunch the numbers, and even with the cheapest fabrics, I don’t understand how it’s possible. Someone is sewing that T-shirt, and they’re being paid pennies.” Fast fashion’s exploitation and hidden supply chains aren’t new revelations, but when we talk about the mistreated workers or the environmental impact of disposable clothes, we’re ignoring a third impact on the consumer. The “race to the bottom” has totally ruined our perception of value; we literally have no idea what our clothes (or food, or anything else) should cost, and low prices have become so normalized that we don’t even second-guess them. In fact, despite statistics that suggest millennial and Gen Z shoppers care deeply about sustainability, the fast fashion market is actually growing—and the clothes are getting cheaper. It doesn’t help that luxury is getting more expensive in tandem. Buy this shirt:  Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt This one’s for the bay shirt As the This one’s for the bay shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this heat index steadily climbs, many of us will be seeking refuge—and social distancing—at the beach this summer, where we’ll swim, sun bask, and perhaps even squeeze in a full-body sculpting session. After all, a stretch of sand is “the perfect exercise medium,” according to the fitness guru Lydia Bach, who camouflaged some of her most effective toners as ordinary seaside activities in an Ishimuro-lensed fitness guide in Vogue’s July 1976 issue. Nearly 45 years later, those exercises—whether achieved while applying sunscreen or searching through a straw tote—are still stealth stretching and shaping at its very best. Exercises for thighs and lower stomach. Sit, legs outstretched. Leaning forward acts as a weight to thighs, makes exercise more difficult. Try to get hands past your knees on sand (near ankles is advanced strength). As you raise leg off sand, don’t let hands budge. Keep leg raised, point and flex foot 10 times. The lower you are able to lean, the more you increase stretch in lower back. Bike helmets unlock some deep-seated middle school discomfort around what is “cool.” For me, it’s enough to ruin the freeing experience of riding a bicycle in the first place. Suffice it to say: I hate helmets. Like many, I signed up for a Citibike membership as a way to get around during the pandemic. You should, of course, always wear a helmet. But I reasoned that since there weren’t any cars on the road, I could get away without one. That reasoning kind of worked during the weeks of no traffic, but as the city started opening up so did my chance of a head injury. So, much like wearing a face mask, I was compelled to do the responsible thing and find one that I could deal with. I went to Google and typed in a few key search terms: “chic bike helmets” “bike helmet fashion” and “cool helmets.” Many hours later, what I found is that no helmet is actually cool, chic, or fashionable. However, some are aesthetically better than others. I didn’t want an overly designed helmet, so that knocked out anything with an unusual shape, too much color, or a pattern. I found myself drawn towards darker solid colors (black, navy) and sleeker designs. They felt less offensive and more in line with my (all black) wardrobe. What I also learned in my research rabbit hole is that if you are going to get a helmet, which, again, you should, it should have MIPS technology (a.k.a. Buy this shirt:  This one’s for the bay shirt The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Omsom’s co-founders are Vanessa and Kim Pham, two first-generation Vietnamese American sisters who sought to bring proud, loud Asian flavors into American homes that didn’t sacrifice cultural integrity, either. As the The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Besides,I will do this Pham sisters tell Vogue, they wished to “reclaim and celebrate Asian flavors, Asian stories, and Asian culture.” Vanessa describes walking down the “ethnic” aisle in mainstream grocery stores, where she and her sister noticed a big disconnect between the items available on shelves and who they served (and didn’t).“A lot of those products were not made with folks like us in the room. And so, that was just a fundamental cornerstone of our business since day one,” says Kim. The sisters decided to join forces to create Omsom. Kim, brought her 10-year-long experience working with startups in venture capital while Vanessa, a graduate from Harvard, had a breadth of business-savvy experience working at Bain & Company advising Fortune 500 companies. The key to Omsom’s brilliance is that it solves a simple, yet common dilemma so many first-generation Asian-Americans can relate to—trying to recreate convoluted recipes our parents used to make with little to no access to the myriad of ingredients required and a lack of knowledge and understanding on how to actually make these dishes. For me, one of the most difficult parts of Asian cooking has always been exactly this—finding the right ingredients to bring the rich, bold Vietnamese flavors to life. The right seasonings, chilis, sauces can make for a grocery list that extends 10 items or longer. Kim similarly shares, “I would be on the phone with mom, [with] mom being like, ‘Add the right amount of fish sauce.’ And we’d be like, ‘Five teaspoons or tablespoons?’” says Kim. But here, this process is made simple in one easy-to-use sauce packet. For Kim and Vanessa, their connection with food has been present throughout their lives. Food has “been a way that we connect with our identity and understand our culture,” says Vanessa, who in fact, recalls mentioning her favorite Vietnamese soup dish “Bun Bo Hue” (a beef and vermicelli noodle soup) in the starting line of her college essay. For many Asian families (mine included) love was conveyed through food. “Food was always a huge part of our family, but in many ways, quite unspoken. You might not say, ‘I love you,’ but you’ll put a piece of fruit [out] to apologize,” says Kim. “We’ve found it to be an important language, in a way, for us to reclaim what it means to share Asian culture in a way that’s undiluted,” Vanessa adds. Buy this shirt:  The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Team Godzilla shirt This recipe is inspired by courgettes avec des arachides (French for ‘zucchini with peanuts’), a classic dish from the Team Godzilla shirt and I will buy this north-central African country Chad,” says chef Bryant Terry of his oven-roasted zucchini recipe, a simple dish dressed up with the addition of collard-peanut pesto. Perfect to bring to any socially-distanced barbecues this summer, it’s just one of many innovative vegan offerings found in Terry’s new cookbook, Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes. Over the past few years, veganism has moved from a lifestyle choice firmly into the mainstream: in 2019, The Economist reported a quarter of 25 to 34-year-olds were either vegan or vegetarian. Disney World has over 400 plant-based menu options, and Burger King now serves the Impossible Whopper. Vegetable Kingdom, with its recipes heralding everything from peas to summer squashes to spinach, further cements the role of vegetables no longer as just the side dish, but as the main affair, too. Yet, Vegetable Kingdom also champions a rich variety of global cuisines: Terry, the chef-in-residence at San Francisco’s MoAD, emphasizes ingredients and cooking styles of the African diaspora, whereas his wife, Jidian Terry Koon, does so with a variety of Asian flavors, from Chinese to Vietnamese. Kingdom reflects those culinary cultures, and many more—Terry notes that fennel, a hearty Mediterranean vegetable, sparked the inspiration for this book. Make the zucchini: Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, toss the zucchini with the olive oil and salt, then spread the zucchini over the baking sheet in one even layer. Roast until the zucchini is brown around the edges, 18 to 20 minutes. To serve, transfer the zucchini to a bowl and give it a few turns of pepper. Next, drop in a few heaping dollops of pesto so that people can scoop as much as they’d like when serving themselves, adding more pesto to the bowl as needed. Pile the peanuts in a small serving bowl and present alongside the zucchini. Make the pesto: In a food processor, combine the collards, peanuts, miso, and garlic and blend until it forms a chunky paste. While the food processor is running, slowly pour in the olive oil through the feed tube, adding more if needed to reach your desired consistency. Season with salt, pepper, and additional lemon juice to taste. Set aside. Buy this shirt:  Team Godzilla shirt Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt She has dressed up a crop top and leggings with a blazer, and slipped on cozy streetwear, among other moments. But her latest sighting is especially pleasing to fans of ‘90s rock bands and comfortable clothes alike. Yesterday, Turner and Jonas took a stroll in Los Angeles together, and Turner wore an oversized band tee from Oasis and a mask. She sported an oversized top the Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt But I will love this ’90s English rock band known for hits such as “Wonderwall” and “Don’t Look Back In Anger.” The star styled her merch with mini shorts and slide sandals. It’s a striking look for a few reasons. First, the band choice itself: was Turner’s ode to the group inspired by a recent listen of Spotify’s ’90s playlist? Does she also have “Wonderwall” stuck in her head? Her fit also the perfect balance of what maternity style should be: it’s cute and comfy, with a dash of individuality. Jonas, meanwhile, wore a Hawaiian-print shirt with black jeans and sneakers—proving he, too, is making dad-to-be style cool. Let’s also talk about their coordinated face masks. Turner’s printed mask complemented Jonas’s galaxy-printed one by Werkshop. They didn’t match exactly (are couples meant to match masks now?) It’s only practical to buy masks in bulk; so why not double up on masks and start making it a couple style moment? Only time will tell if Jonas and Turner will start doing so. But for now, they’re clearly nailing the expectant parent look. Two years ago, when Andrea Kerzner—founder of the nonprofit Lalela, and daughter of South African super-hotelier Sol Kerzner—discovered how the meat industry was fueling climate change, she decided to open a casual plant-based restaurant that focused on the ultimate comfort food: burgers. She set out to find the best chef for the job, interviewing several candidates before finding Amanda Cohen, the executive chef and owner of Dirt Candy, an award-winning vegetarian restaurant that has been in New York City since 2008. “I met with Amanda and literally there and then I could see her passion for food,” says Kerzner. “Within 24 hours, she agreed to work with me.” The two set about creating Lekka (Afrikaans slang for “delicious”), an all-vegan restaurant that opens November 19th in Tribeca. The restaurant’s signature dish is a vegan burger, served five different ways. For Cohen, creating a plant-based burger required overcoming some of her own prejudices. “We haven’t had a burger ever on the menu at Dirt Candy. And I had been against it, to be brutally honest,” says Cohen. “ Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt This year’s CFDA Awards were a casualty of the Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt and by the same token and COVID-19 pandemic. Originally scheduled for Monday, June 8, they would’ve kicked off NYFW: Resort and New York’s June men’s collections, both of which were likewise canceled. But the show must go on—virtually at least. This year’s winners will be announced on both CFDA.com and the CFDA’s social channels on Monday, September 14, which is the first day of a shortened New York Fashion Week. It too is shaping up to be a largely digital affair. The awards would’ve been the first presided over by Ford as chairman. He had been planning changes, instituting two new prizes, the global women’s designer of the year and the global men’s designer of the year, to replace the international award, which last year went to Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen. In lieu of the in-person event, we will be prioritizing new and existing programming to support our designer community during the global pandemic—by redirecting efforts towards next-generation scholarships and making important changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry,” said Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA, in the same statement. Racial equity remains an issue in the industry, however. Of the 15 designers nominated in the top American awards categories, only Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Telfar Clemens, and Peter Do are people of color. The emerging designer category is more diverse and includes Christopher John Rogers, who was last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner. Summer has officially arrived as of last week, and while June swiftly turns into July, the days are growing warmer and warmer, thus affecting our closets. This year, the best clothing sales will make it easier to shop for summery pieces like dresses and tops that stand up well in the hot days ahead, understanding that our wardrobes will look a bit different than in year’s past. With so much time spent at home, on-trend pieces like clog sandals (or any kind of special shoe) have quickly taken a backseat to tried-and-true wardrobe essentials, like crisp white dress shirts that will have you Zoom-ready in a pinch, or soft tees that pair well with sweats and jeans. Basics that can be worn day in and day out, whether at home or out and about (following social distancing precautions, of course), have unexpectedly climbed the ranks to become must-haves this summer. Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt Perry Ellis has a lot going for it in 2019. The brand recently launched the Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt it is in the first place but nostalgia-soaked diffusion line called Perry Ellis America, made up exclusively of archival pieces plucked from its ’80s heyday. Think: color-blocked windbreakers, logo’d hoodies, and track pants. (Justin and Hailey Bieber are already fans.) As for the mainline, Perry Ellis has always been a brand known for its prints, and the “look” of this summer was indisputably a boldly printed camp shirt. Guys wore them over T-shirts and girls wore them with bike shorts; it’s a happily unisex trend. Creative Director Michael Maccari said the women in his office frequently shop the collection, and they’ve likely called dibs on the Spring 2020 shirts that mimic abstract paintings. Those shirts merged Maccari’s two key influences: the Luca Guadagnino film A Bigger Splash (set in Sicily and starring Tilda Swinton and Ralph Fiennes) and the artwork of David Hockney. Maccari was designing the collection last fall, just after one of Hockney’s famous swimming pool paintings sold for $90 million, making him the priciest living artist in history (though he was surpassed by Jeff Koons in May). Hockney’s crisp, deeply saturated paintings of water and nature informed the painterly prints, while the artist’s own preppy style informed the “nerdy” knit polos. Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt There’s nothing like a good Philipp Plein show to round off a super-long, super-Saturday of Milan shows. And this was nothing like a good Philipp Plein show. Joke! In fact, this Plein outing was perfectly bearable, and the Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this clothes whisper it had some redeeming features. Following January’s blessedly straightforward reset, at which the centrally located runway featured The Killers and a not-killer but okay collection, Munich’s most famous Ferrari-favoring mountain-buying no longer an infant but eternally terrible Swiss-based (for tax reasons) fashion iconoclast had apparently got the message. This was another show full of bombast and performance, but it zinged along promptly. Unless the looming lightning on the horizon ended things early, it looked like the after-party that was shaping up when we left was going to be fun (for those in the mood). The crowd that was apparently watching from the balcony of the Fondazione Prada alongside were probably not in that mood. Part of Plein’s shtick has always been that he is here to storm the ivory towers such as that Fondazione of fashion. Tonight he sounded like the grizzliest gatekeeper of them all as he spoke at impassioned length of the dangers of over-discounting something that certain shareholder driven online wholesale retailers (naming no names) favor boosting short-term revenue results—in affecting the overall perception of a brand. He was passingly scurrilous, on the purpose of course, about labels that are not his own, but it is not Vogue Runway’s job to stir the pot on others’ behalf. Another subject we got into was his reported efforts to acquire the Roberto Cavalli brand. These turn out to be true, and were the subject, he said, of four months’ focus, but have, for reasons too niche and potentially litigious to Regardless of what era, the material was always very simple and usually white. They liked the dresses to have a lot of style to them, such as pleating. In the Old Kingdom, they usually wore horizontal pleating, whereas, in the New Kingdom, it was generally vertical. During the Middle Kingdom, pleating was much more extensive. Sometimes it would be horizontal with vertical pleating overlapping. How they achieved this pleated look is unknown. During the New Kingdom period it became fashionable for dresses to be pleated or draped. Occasionally women would have feathers and beading across the chest area, but mostly the cloth was bare. They decorated their clothes with details using feather, embroidery, sequin and pieces of jewellery to make them more attractive to the gods and headdresses. Buy this shirt:  Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt The major starting point for the Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt also I will do this collection, Vaccarello said at a preview, was Marrakech in the ’70s (YSL was a habituée) reimagined as 21st-century Los Angeles, a city that resides on Vaccarello’s own emotional landscape. (He first visited when he was 14, and there have been many return visits.) While that’s some geographical leap, it’s not an unimaginable one; both locations speak to a yearning for a certain bohemian, free-spirited, almost mystical escape. “You come to L.A. for vacation,” Vaccarello said. “You can disconnect from the rest of the world.” The Morocco-by-way-of-LA-isms were smartly and sparingly deployed throughout the collection and considered flourishes, not theme-gone-wild. The tasseled hoods, djellaba shirting, and embroideries of tiny silver discs suspended from chains amplified the rigor of the classic YSL vestiaire that Vaccarello has been busy exploring (the saharienne, the sharp-as-a-tack tux) as well as the kind of pieces (the bomber, the spencer) that he has introduced into the house’s lexicon. At a time when men’s tailoring is coming back with a vengeance, there was plenty of it here that intrigued, including jackets whose shoulder seams ran on the bias, keeping the line defined, but, apparently, allowing for more comfort and mobility. After all, how else might you convince a generation accustomed to the freedom of streetwear to try tailoring on for the first time and keep it on? The other major reference for the collection was Mick Jagger, circa the Rolling Stones tour of 1975, where the lead singer got to shake a tail feather on stage (and off) in all sorts of glossy and glittery finery. Vaccarello understands, as Jagger did, that a man never looks more masculine than when he’s in satin and sparkle. So he took the opportunity to reference the androgyny of the glam-slam ’70s with one that reflects today: the gleaming black teddy jacket whose sleeves were cut with kimono-like proportions, for instance, or an ivory satin suit, which came with a matching silk shirt left undone save for the knot at the waist. (Jagger, incidentally, who gave Vaccarello access to his vintage YSL, is returning the compliment by wearing some pieces from this collection when the Stones start their U.S. tour later this month, including the cobalt blue-to-black dégradé beaded blouson.) Egyptian clothing, as were clothes from all ancient societies, was made from locally-sourced materials. Egyptian society was one of the earliest agricultural societies. That is why the ancient Egyptians wore light clothes made from linen. Linen is made from flax – a plant that was grown along the Nile. The picture to the right shows the flax growing process. Buy this shirt:  Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt That made it difficult for Marretta to find much fresh water. For instance, we’d seen the Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt besides I will buy this pool-dappled pattern—which is very attractive—not just at Kors’s Hockney-hashing collection, but also this season at MSGM (in a collection simply enough about summer). Yet that’s not to conclude this was an altogether poor debut from Marretta, who clearly has some serious knitwear petrol in his engine following his time in Milan. The double-face wool-blend track pants and rib-knit sweaters in violently opposing lifeguard-uniform yellow and red were, as he said, fun. So were his pieces of reversible outerwear in checks that mashed Prince of Wales against argyle, which matched his a-lot-like-Birkenstock sandals. The intarsia-homage diving-figure sweater was cute. But if Marretta is going to revisit British culture through his Italian eyes, he should either do it in a completely new manner or find lesser explored but still visually compelling aspects of the culture he has moved from Armani to dive into. “I am no longer an artist; I have become a work of art,” spoke a voiceover in the middle of Prada’s Spring 2020 men’s shoe, held, for the first time off home turf, in Shanghai. (Typically Miuccia Prada prefers to show her collections in the Fondazione Prada in Milan or at her New York office.) Later, the same voice said, “I feel myself a god.” Mrs. Prada has long maintained a reverent relationship with art, supporting and collaborating with her favorite creators, without ever formally declaring herself among their ranks—no word on the god situation. So, what were we to make of the statements pronounced, at techno speed, over a blue-lit runway at the Minsheng Art Wharf? To those at home in the Pradaverse, the words, lifted from Frankie Goes to Hollywood’s Welcome to the Pleasuredome, were Prada subversion at its best. In the show notes unlike her in situ shows, Mrs. P did not assemble journalists for a debrief the collection was described as one of optimism, suggesting that being hopeful can be an antidote for accepting the darkness of our actuality. It’s a continuation of the themes she launched at her recent women’s Resort show in New York, but when presented on male models, it took on a kinkier edge.  I fought my way, using the advantage of having a small body, bending, and shoving until I got there. Okay, I think I see it! The window that a teacher stands behind. I extended my hand with the money, gasping for breath as two big girls squished me from both sides. Buy this shirt:  Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt Thus far, the SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt also I will do this shows this week have been a series of experiences. There’s been a bat mitzvah, a supper club performance by Janelle Monáe (with an invite stating a black-and-white dress code, no less), and a moving gospel choir performance inside one of Brooklyn’s oldest, most storied theaters. Some on the circuit is already ringing the death knell for the traditional runway show format, and frankly, the differentiation has helped spice things up on the newly condensed calendar. Private Policy, a label based between Shanghai and New York from Chinese designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu, did the same, opting to show their Spring 2020 unisex label with a live model presentation at a SoHo gallery alongside a series of portraits photographed by Shxpir Huang. After Fashion Week, space will turn into a pop-up shop. The images feature real Asian-American families who all styled themselves in the latest Private Policy lineup, which includes their signature checkered pattern applied to the lapels of baby pink and seafoam green skirt- and short-suit sets. There were cool, raver-Esque harness tops and ring-detailed slip dresses, along with Li and Qu’s usual streetwear tees. They’ve titled their collection “Family Dinner,” and the idea was to highlight the often emotionally intense experience of an Asian-American family gathering around food. More forward-thinking youth will sometimes clash with the elders who are tied to their generational, conservative ideologies. The portraits of the families are meant to showcase just how varied Asian-American families can be: They can have older kids, both the mother and father can work, or two Asian men can get married and start their own family together. That last example is of great importance to Li and Qu, as they want to challenge gender bias and LGBTQ discrimination in their own culture, both at home and in America. I admire Catherine re-wearing so many beautiful dresses. She even has her children wearing hand-me-downs, which is wonderful and practical, but I love the times when all the men and ladies bring out their finest clothes and have their hair styled and royalty exudes a brilliance that Hollywood cannot recreate. Those State dinners are full of glitz and glam, and watching the royals wear their sashes and special pins, which are full of meaning, is otherworldly, almost. Nothing compares. Buy this shirt:  SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt For years, Marcus Wainwright talked up Rag & Bone’s connection to the Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt but in fact I love this street, emphasizing the off-duty IRL-ness of the clothes. The design team wasn’t inattentive to trends, but it certainly didn’t follow them obsequiously. Tried-and-true essentials were the order of the day. So it was no small development to hear Wainwright say at a visit to the brand’s showroom that there’s “a call for more ‘pushed’ fashion on the men’s side.” As ever at R&B, the foundations are British tailoring, American workwear, a strong Japanese aesthetic most notable via fabrications, and a sports element. But as promised, those foundations were heightened this time around. See the pinstriping on a well-cut coat and the eye-catching color-blocking on strict military shirts, cargo pants, and tennis sweaters. The bomber with “44” embroidered on the arm that President Obama wore to a college basketball game back in February, nearly breaking the Internet in the process, was cut with a new floral-print lining made from Japanese indigo (and sans the 44 detail). Wainwright and co. made excellent use of fabrics sourced from Japan. Pull-on pants in faded indigo cotton managed to look both fashionable and essential at the same time. He should add them to the Rag & Bone women’s collection, for sure.  Rage and alienation: is this Raf Simons’s comfort zone, the place which connects him back, as a 51-year-old man, to the teenage experience his work continually fetishizes? Well, Simons doesn’t have to play nice to any bosses anymore. After his exit from Calvin Klein, he reports only to himself. And what the free Raf Simons wants to say is exactly how much he accuses and despises corporate America. Quite apart from the slogans, it was there rather clearly, breaking through on the soundtrack, a voice which intoned, “Big lie…media America, corporate America…fascist America.” Yes, Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, does wear custom made gowns for special occasions when the ladies pull out their tiaras and jewels and high heels. For the State Dinner at Buckingham Palace, Catherine wore a white ruffled gown by Alexander McQueen. No recycled outfits for a night like this. Buy this shirt:  Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt Houseago was just one in a chorus of creative voices that harmonized around this collection. Although there were some very overtly personal and Mexican touches, such as sequins reflecting China Poblana festival wear and the Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt also I will do this Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers’ association, for whose Mexican migrant pickers Owens’s father often worked as a translator in the California courts (these garments and a piece of jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW), he said he was very careful to avoid the folkloric side of Mexican culture. Instead, he said, he had become fascinated with the effect of Mexican culture on the work of Josef and Anni Albers, the subject of a recent-ish show at the Guggenheim. Owens expounded: “I loved that combination of modernism with something so ancient. Looking at the drawings they made that were inspired by the sites was the Mexico angle I wanted.” With the exception of some Perspex-heeled platforms and rough tire-sole cowskin sandals that caused much trepidation as the models descended steps while keeping their eyes fixed on the pit, it was also a collection abrim with highly wearable pieces. Personally I loved the cotton jackets in a black and white set with austere, angled grids of ribbon and lacing, which was sometimes reflected in a riot of lacing on a Veja collab sneaker and looped into the fabric of some loose wool track pants. The sequins incorporated one-color oversize tailoring and looked pleasingly sleazy, while metallic-finished outerwear boasted a brutal industrial shimmer. In collaboration with Champion, Owens primitivized its cotton jersey via transformation into togas and loincloths. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in the clothing created by Owens. The convenient accessibility to my sister’s lingerie paved the way for me to experiment which I inevitably did when home alone one day. Whilst it was a most exciting and somewhat of a nerve-wracking experience due to it being my first experience trying on panties and a slip, I was also thrilled at how the panties felt and how they looked on me when I checked in the mirror. The nylon and lace slip enhanced even further the delightful silky feeling of the silky nylon panties. The two layers of silky nylon lingerie felt so wonderfully good I did not want to take them off. Buy this shirt:  Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt besides I will buy this New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change.  Federico Curradi is finding his groove at Rochas. This annoyingly standing-format show (how to type?) was packed full of engaging all-organic garments, soft and flowing, and bohemian. Curradi said he’s trying to make an artist’s wardrobe and who doesn’t want to look like an “artist,” right? Since decamping to Paris from Florence, he’s tried to suffuse himself in Frenchness, and for this collection consulted Ed van der Elsken’s Love on the Left Bank and Helena Janeczek’s The Girl With the Leica what a story with which to conjure atmospheric touches to his garments. Inspired by Gerda Taro’s bravery and resolve (if you don’t know it, please Google her story; it’s amazing), he incorporated soft embroidery detailing on weathered military-uniform-inspired trenches and shirting in silk and cotton. Noticing my sisters panties and slips on the clothesline drying after washing and my mother neatly folding her panties and ironing her slips after the washing was brought in, kept building my interest and gave me persisting thoughts about panties and slips until it reached the stage where inexorably I felt compelled to explore trying on panties and a slip. Buy this shirt:  Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Most of this, though, was derived directly from the Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Besides,I will do this work emerging from Ruby’s sprawling California studio complex. The printed dresses and shirting featured imagery of candles and weeds shot by Ruby’s wife, Melanie Schiff. One model wore a vinyl tabard bearing the lurid coverwork of a book entitled Hex, a 1972 examination of pow-wow and murder in the Pennsylvania Dutch community amidst which he was partially raised. This childhood influence presumably also influenced the Mennonite-style dresses in bleached denim. Ruby said the stalagmite-like U.S. flag decals on his denim pieces reflected certain sculpted works; Ruby-philes will doubtless recognize many more entanglements between his artistic body of work and the beginning of this new one as they look at these clothes. Arguably the boldest element of all on show tonight was the act of a famed contemporary artist transitioning into the world of fashion design. Fashion traditionally tugs its forelock at contemporary art, while contemporary art is happy to take fashion’s sponsorship cash and revel in its assumed superiority in the creative hierarchy. Ruby, conversely, seems to be genuinely enthused by this new aspect of his practice, and who is to say his fashion will not prove as lucrative as his art? This “collection” is, in fact, not one but four collections: Some pieces went immediately on sale, see-now-buy-now style, and are presumably the fashion equivalents of print editions. Buy this shirt:  Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt The price of fabric changes at scale too. If Stanley, Roche, and Romy could triple the Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt and by the same token and size of their businesses, perhaps their prices would come down a little, but that isn’t their goal. The larger a company gets, the more difficult it becomes to keep track of the supply chain; we all remember how certain well-known brands didn’t even know their clothes were being produced in the collapsed Rana Plaza factory. Understanding scale also explains why a higher price doesn’t always equate to better fabrics and fair labor. A polyester dress might retail for $400 because the label produced it in small quantities and paid its workers—but it’s still polyester, and you shouldn’t waste $400 on something so environmentally damaging. Or maybe the brand made it in huge quantities and used cheap labor, but hiked the price to convince you it’s an elevated product. There’s always going to be confusion when it comes to price, and some brands are always going to value “brand equity” over their workforces. The only way you’ll really know if a price is worth your hard-earned cash is by digging deeper and demanding transparency from the brands you support. On the luxury side, designers and retailers are actively discussing how to become open and honest about price and quality. By explaining the origin of their fabrics, how their clothes are made, and who makes them, the hope is that customers will shop more confidently and will be motivated to invest in the story, not just the product or trend. In theory, that concept of mindful consumption could eventually trickle down to the high street. It isn’t going to fix climate change or fashion’s murky supply chain, but it’s the best way we can begin to make a difference—and by “we,” I mean those of us in the privileged position of having money to spend and the headspace to refine our shopping habits. The common rebuttal to the “fewer, better” approach is that some people can’t afford to pay more for clothes, and that’s absolutely true. But lower-income shoppers aren’t the ones creating the mess; they aren’t buying a new dress every week and then throwing it out. The people abusing the system are the ones who could afford to buy fewer, higher-quality items, and it’s our responsibility to use our power and influence to raise the bar for everyone else. Buy this shirt:  Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Another designer might cut her costs by using cheaper fabrics or cheaper labor, but Stanley is committed to her family-run factory in Delhi, India, and won’t compromise on high-quality, organic fabrics. The only way she could lower her prices would be to take less profit or transition her business to a direct-to-consumer model, eliminating the Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Besides,I will do this retail markup. (Given the state of department stores, many of her peers are likely thinking the same thing.) In the meantime, the best thing she can do is educate her customers about precisely why her new hand-embroidered organic cotton dress costs $550. Stanley openly shared the cost breakdown here: $24 covers the organic cotton and dyes; the intricate handwork comes in at $48, because it took an embroiderer a full day to make the dress; production labor, including sewing, pattern-making, sampling, finishing, and packing, was $48; trims, including the labels, hang tag, and dust bag, were $5; shipping was $8; and duties were $24. Her total cost came to $157, and in order to keep the final price lower, she took just a 1.59x margin, bumping the wholesale price to $250. (This means Stanley would earn $93 in profit when a store orders the dress.) With the typical retail margin of 2.2x, the final price tag on the rack in a boutique is $550. I’ve been trying to make it a point to tell the story of my clothes, but it’s hard to be honest and say, ‘This is my cost, this is how much I make on this piece, this is why you should support my brand and the people who made it,’” Stanley says. “I love going to a store, and I have friends who have boutiques and work so hard. They deserve to make that margin, but the retail markup is really why clothes get so expensive. That’s where I get stuck.” If you’re of the “buy less, buy better” mentality, it isn’t hard to justify the higher price. Plenty of Stanley’s customers are investment-minded and care about her commitment to ethical, sustainable, small-batch production, but some still need to be convinced that it’s “worth” buying one of her dresses instead of five cheaper versions. Lucette Romy, the founder of The Wylde, an organic label handmade in Bali, has had similar conversations with her customers about the higher price of organic cotton, botanical dyes, and dignified labor. “But it often isn’t enough to change their minds,” she says. So she found another way to get the point across: Every item on her site comes with a cost-per-wear breakdown. Her new organic cotton dress goes for 260 Australian dollars, or $178, but if you wear it 10 times, it’s $18 per wear. Buy this shirt:  Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt There’s merit in investing in timeless pieces like quality jewelry and clothing that are built to last (even though purchasing a Cartier watch may not always be plausible). In the Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt moreover I will buy this long run, it’s more advantageous both economically and for the environment to invest in fewer, more expensive pieces crafted to withstand time, rather than indulging in trend-forward pieces that may not hold up physically or aesthetically after a few wears. Buying quality jewelry is not just about achieving a good cost-per-wear ratio— investment pieces are about longevity too. A classic piece that feels perfectly aligned with your style tends to age with grace, making it feel even more valuable as time presses on. Maybe the watch or ring you buy now will become a family heirloom, or maybe it’s something you’ll want to wear for decades. A classic trench coat will always be a wardrobe staple in transitional weather. From quality jewelry to clothing, here are the investment pieces that will stand the test of time and may even be history in the making. Read that again, and the idea of a T-shirt being “worth” $5 might seem preposterous, if not criminal. How is it possible that all of those materials, logistics, and people amount to just dollars or cents? Many of those costs are fixed; the price of cotton isn’t negotiable, even at scale. The person who made the T-shirt, on the other hand, is a lot easier to exploit. It would be reckless to claim that every low-priced good was made by an underpaid laborer, but it’s also just simple math. “It really blows my mind,” Ryan Roche said on a recent call. “I can crunch the numbers, and even with the cheapest fabrics, I don’t understand how it’s possible. Someone is sewing that T-shirt, and they’re being paid pennies.” Fast fashion’s exploitation and hidden supply chains aren’t new revelations, but when we talk about the mistreated workers or the environmental impact of disposable clothes, we’re ignoring a third impact on the consumer. The “race to the bottom” has totally ruined our perception of value; we literally have no idea what our clothes (or food, or anything else) should cost, and low prices have become so normalized that we don’t even second-guess them. In fact, despite statistics that suggest millennial and Gen Z shoppers care deeply about sustainability, the fast fashion market is actually growing—and the clothes are getting cheaper. It doesn’t help that luxury is getting more expensive in tandem. Buy this shirt:  Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt This one’s for the bay shirt As the This one’s for the bay shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this heat index steadily climbs, many of us will be seeking refuge—and social distancing—at the beach this summer, where we’ll swim, sun bask, and perhaps even squeeze in a full-body sculpting session. After all, a stretch of sand is “the perfect exercise medium,” according to the fitness guru Lydia Bach, who camouflaged some of her most effective toners as ordinary seaside activities in an Ishimuro-lensed fitness guide in Vogue’s July 1976 issue. Nearly 45 years later, those exercises—whether achieved while applying sunscreen or searching through a straw tote—are still stealth stretching and shaping at its very best. Exercises for thighs and lower stomach. Sit, legs outstretched. Leaning forward acts as a weight to thighs, makes exercise more difficult. Try to get hands past your knees on sand (near ankles is advanced strength). As you raise leg off sand, don’t let hands budge. Keep leg raised, point and flex foot 10 times. The lower you are able to lean, the more you increase stretch in lower back. Bike helmets unlock some deep-seated middle school discomfort around what is “cool.” For me, it’s enough to ruin the freeing experience of riding a bicycle in the first place. Suffice it to say: I hate helmets. Like many, I signed up for a Citibike membership as a way to get around during the pandemic. You should, of course, always wear a helmet. But I reasoned that since there weren’t any cars on the road, I could get away without one. That reasoning kind of worked during the weeks of no traffic, but as the city started opening up so did my chance of a head injury. So, much like wearing a face mask, I was compelled to do the responsible thing and find one that I could deal with. I went to Google and typed in a few key search terms: “chic bike helmets” “bike helmet fashion” and “cool helmets.” Many hours later, what I found is that no helmet is actually cool, chic, or fashionable. However, some are aesthetically better than others. I didn’t want an overly designed helmet, so that knocked out anything with an unusual shape, too much color, or a pattern. I found myself drawn towards darker solid colors (black, navy) and sleeker designs. They felt less offensive and more in line with my (all black) wardrobe. What I also learned in my research rabbit hole is that if you are going to get a helmet, which, again, you should, it should have MIPS technology (a.k.a. Buy this shirt:  This one’s for the bay shirt The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Omsom’s co-founders are Vanessa and Kim Pham, two first-generation Vietnamese American sisters who sought to bring proud, loud Asian flavors into American homes that didn’t sacrifice cultural integrity, either. As the The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Besides,I will do this Pham sisters tell Vogue, they wished to “reclaim and celebrate Asian flavors, Asian stories, and Asian culture.” Vanessa describes walking down the “ethnic” aisle in mainstream grocery stores, where she and her sister noticed a big disconnect between the items available on shelves and who they served (and didn’t).“A lot of those products were not made with folks like us in the room. And so, that was just a fundamental cornerstone of our business since day one,” says Kim. The sisters decided to join forces to create Omsom. Kim, brought her 10-year-long experience working with startups in venture capital while Vanessa, a graduate from Harvard, had a breadth of business-savvy experience working at Bain & Company advising Fortune 500 companies. The key to Omsom’s brilliance is that it solves a simple, yet common dilemma so many first-generation Asian-Americans can relate to—trying to recreate convoluted recipes our parents used to make with little to no access to the myriad of ingredients required and a lack of knowledge and understanding on how to actually make these dishes. For me, one of the most difficult parts of Asian cooking has always been exactly this—finding the right ingredients to bring the rich, bold Vietnamese flavors to life. The right seasonings, chilis, sauces can make for a grocery list that extends 10 items or longer. Kim similarly shares, “I would be on the phone with mom, [with] mom being like, ‘Add the right amount of fish sauce.’ And we’d be like, ‘Five teaspoons or tablespoons?’” says Kim. But here, this process is made simple in one easy-to-use sauce packet. For Kim and Vanessa, their connection with food has been present throughout their lives. Food has “been a way that we connect with our identity and understand our culture,” says Vanessa, who in fact, recalls mentioning her favorite Vietnamese soup dish “Bun Bo Hue” (a beef and vermicelli noodle soup) in the starting line of her college essay. For many Asian families (mine included) love was conveyed through food. “Food was always a huge part of our family, but in many ways, quite unspoken. You might not say, ‘I love you,’ but you’ll put a piece of fruit [out] to apologize,” says Kim. “We’ve found it to be an important language, in a way, for us to reclaim what it means to share Asian culture in a way that’s undiluted,” Vanessa adds. Buy this shirt:  The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Team Godzilla shirt This recipe is inspired by courgettes avec des arachides (French for ‘zucchini with peanuts’), a classic dish from the Team Godzilla shirt and I will buy this north-central African country Chad,” says chef Bryant Terry of his oven-roasted zucchini recipe, a simple dish dressed up with the addition of collard-peanut pesto. Perfect to bring to any socially-distanced barbecues this summer, it’s just one of many innovative vegan offerings found in Terry’s new cookbook, Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes. Over the past few years, veganism has moved from a lifestyle choice firmly into the mainstream: in 2019, The Economist reported a quarter of 25 to 34-year-olds were either vegan or vegetarian. Disney World has over 400 plant-based menu options, and Burger King now serves the Impossible Whopper. Vegetable Kingdom, with its recipes heralding everything from peas to summer squashes to spinach, further cements the role of vegetables no longer as just the side dish, but as the main affair, too. Yet, Vegetable Kingdom also champions a rich variety of global cuisines: Terry, the chef-in-residence at San Francisco’s MoAD, emphasizes ingredients and cooking styles of the African diaspora, whereas his wife, Jidian Terry Koon, does so with a variety of Asian flavors, from Chinese to Vietnamese. Kingdom reflects those culinary cultures, and many more—Terry notes that fennel, a hearty Mediterranean vegetable, sparked the inspiration for this book. Make the zucchini: Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, toss the zucchini with the olive oil and salt, then spread the zucchini over the baking sheet in one even layer. Roast until the zucchini is brown around the edges, 18 to 20 minutes. To serve, transfer the zucchini to a bowl and give it a few turns of pepper. Next, drop in a few heaping dollops of pesto so that people can scoop as much as they’d like when serving themselves, adding more pesto to the bowl as needed. Pile the peanuts in a small serving bowl and present alongside the zucchini. Make the pesto: In a food processor, combine the collards, peanuts, miso, and garlic and blend until it forms a chunky paste. While the food processor is running, slowly pour in the olive oil through the feed tube, adding more if needed to reach your desired consistency. Season with salt, pepper, and additional lemon juice to taste. Set aside. Buy this shirt:  Team Godzilla shirt Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt She has dressed up a crop top and leggings with a blazer, and slipped on cozy streetwear, among other moments. But her latest sighting is especially pleasing to fans of ‘90s rock bands and comfortable clothes alike. Yesterday, Turner and Jonas took a stroll in Los Angeles together, and Turner wore an oversized band tee from Oasis and a mask. She sported an oversized top the Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt But I will love this ’90s English rock band known for hits such as “Wonderwall” and “Don’t Look Back In Anger.” The star styled her merch with mini shorts and slide sandals. It’s a striking look for a few reasons. First, the band choice itself: was Turner’s ode to the group inspired by a recent listen of Spotify’s ’90s playlist? Does she also have “Wonderwall” stuck in her head? Her fit also the perfect balance of what maternity style should be: it’s cute and comfy, with a dash of individuality. Jonas, meanwhile, wore a Hawaiian-print shirt with black jeans and sneakers—proving he, too, is making dad-to-be style cool. Let’s also talk about their coordinated face masks. Turner’s printed mask complemented Jonas’s galaxy-printed one by Werkshop. They didn’t match exactly (are couples meant to match masks now?) It’s only practical to buy masks in bulk; so why not double up on masks and start making it a couple style moment? Only time will tell if Jonas and Turner will start doing so. But for now, they’re clearly nailing the expectant parent look. Two years ago, when Andrea Kerzner—founder of the nonprofit Lalela, and daughter of South African super-hotelier Sol Kerzner—discovered how the meat industry was fueling climate change, she decided to open a casual plant-based restaurant that focused on the ultimate comfort food: burgers. She set out to find the best chef for the job, interviewing several candidates before finding Amanda Cohen, the executive chef and owner of Dirt Candy, an award-winning vegetarian restaurant that has been in New York City since 2008. “I met with Amanda and literally there and then I could see her passion for food,” says Kerzner. “Within 24 hours, she agreed to work with me.” The two set about creating Lekka (Afrikaans slang for “delicious”), an all-vegan restaurant that opens November 19th in Tribeca. The restaurant’s signature dish is a vegan burger, served five different ways. For Cohen, creating a plant-based burger required overcoming some of her own prejudices. “We haven’t had a burger ever on the menu at Dirt Candy. And I had been against it, to be brutally honest,” says Cohen. “ Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt This year’s CFDA Awards were a casualty of the Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt and by the same token and COVID-19 pandemic. Originally scheduled for Monday, June 8, they would’ve kicked off NYFW: Resort and New York’s June men’s collections, both of which were likewise canceled. But the show must go on—virtually at least. This year’s winners will be announced on both CFDA.com and the CFDA’s social channels on Monday, September 14, which is the first day of a shortened New York Fashion Week. It too is shaping up to be a largely digital affair. The awards would’ve been the first presided over by Ford as chairman. He had been planning changes, instituting two new prizes, the global women’s designer of the year and the global men’s designer of the year, to replace the international award, which last year went to Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen. In lieu of the in-person event, we will be prioritizing new and existing programming to support our designer community during the global pandemic—by redirecting efforts towards next-generation scholarships and making important changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry,” said Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA, in the same statement. Racial equity remains an issue in the industry, however. Of the 15 designers nominated in the top American awards categories, only Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Telfar Clemens, and Peter Do are people of color. The emerging designer category is more diverse and includes Christopher John Rogers, who was last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner. Summer has officially arrived as of last week, and while June swiftly turns into July, the days are growing warmer and warmer, thus affecting our closets. This year, the best clothing sales will make it easier to shop for summery pieces like dresses and tops that stand up well in the hot days ahead, understanding that our wardrobes will look a bit different than in year’s past. With so much time spent at home, on-trend pieces like clog sandals (or any kind of special shoe) have quickly taken a backseat to tried-and-true wardrobe essentials, like crisp white dress shirts that will have you Zoom-ready in a pinch, or soft tees that pair well with sweats and jeans. Basics that can be worn day in and day out, whether at home or out and about (following social distancing precautions, of course), have unexpectedly climbed the ranks to become must-haves this summer. Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt Perry Ellis has a lot going for it in 2019. The brand recently launched the Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt it is in the first place but nostalgia-soaked diffusion line called Perry Ellis America, made up exclusively of archival pieces plucked from its ’80s heyday. Think: color-blocked windbreakers, logo’d hoodies, and track pants. (Justin and Hailey Bieber are already fans.) As for the mainline, Perry Ellis has always been a brand known for its prints, and the “look” of this summer was indisputably a boldly printed camp shirt. Guys wore them over T-shirts and girls wore them with bike shorts; it’s a happily unisex trend. Creative Director Michael Maccari said the women in his office frequently shop the collection, and they’ve likely called dibs on the Spring 2020 shirts that mimic abstract paintings. Those shirts merged Maccari’s two key influences: the Luca Guadagnino film A Bigger Splash (set in Sicily and starring Tilda Swinton and Ralph Fiennes) and the artwork of David Hockney. Maccari was designing the collection last fall, just after one of Hockney’s famous swimming pool paintings sold for $90 million, making him the priciest living artist in history (though he was surpassed by Jeff Koons in May). Hockney’s crisp, deeply saturated paintings of water and nature informed the painterly prints, while the artist’s own preppy style informed the “nerdy” knit polos. Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt There’s nothing like a good Philipp Plein show to round off a super-long, super-Saturday of Milan shows. And this was nothing like a good Philipp Plein show. Joke! In fact, this Plein outing was perfectly bearable, and the Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this clothes whisper it had some redeeming features. Following January’s blessedly straightforward reset, at which the centrally located runway featured The Killers and a not-killer but okay collection, Munich’s most famous Ferrari-favoring mountain-buying no longer an infant but eternally terrible Swiss-based (for tax reasons) fashion iconoclast had apparently got the message. This was another show full of bombast and performance, but it zinged along promptly. Unless the looming lightning on the horizon ended things early, it looked like the after-party that was shaping up when we left was going to be fun (for those in the mood). The crowd that was apparently watching from the balcony of the Fondazione Prada alongside were probably not in that mood. Part of Plein’s shtick has always been that he is here to storm the ivory towers such as that Fondazione of fashion. Tonight he sounded like the grizzliest gatekeeper of them all as he spoke at impassioned length of the dangers of over-discounting something that certain shareholder driven online wholesale retailers (naming no names) favor boosting short-term revenue results—in affecting the overall perception of a brand. He was passingly scurrilous, on the purpose of course, about labels that are not his own, but it is not Vogue Runway’s job to stir the pot on others’ behalf. Another subject we got into was his reported efforts to acquire the Roberto Cavalli brand. These turn out to be true, and were the subject, he said, of four months’ focus, but have, for reasons too niche and potentially litigious to Regardless of what era, the material was always very simple and usually white. They liked the dresses to have a lot of style to them, such as pleating. In the Old Kingdom, they usually wore horizontal pleating, whereas, in the New Kingdom, it was generally vertical. During the Middle Kingdom, pleating was much more extensive. Sometimes it would be horizontal with vertical pleating overlapping. How they achieved this pleated look is unknown. During the New Kingdom period it became fashionable for dresses to be pleated or draped. Occasionally women would have feathers and beading across the chest area, but mostly the cloth was bare. They decorated their clothes with details using feather, embroidery, sequin and pieces of jewellery to make them more attractive to the gods and headdresses. Buy this shirt:  Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt The major starting point for the Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt also I will do this collection, Vaccarello said at a preview, was Marrakech in the ’70s (YSL was a habituée) reimagined as 21st-century Los Angeles, a city that resides on Vaccarello’s own emotional landscape. (He first visited when he was 14, and there have been many return visits.) While that’s some geographical leap, it’s not an unimaginable one; both locations speak to a yearning for a certain bohemian, free-spirited, almost mystical escape. “You come to L.A. for vacation,” Vaccarello said. “You can disconnect from the rest of the world.” The Morocco-by-way-of-LA-isms were smartly and sparingly deployed throughout the collection and considered flourishes, not theme-gone-wild. The tasseled hoods, djellaba shirting, and embroideries of tiny silver discs suspended from chains amplified the rigor of the classic YSL vestiaire that Vaccarello has been busy exploring (the saharienne, the sharp-as-a-tack tux) as well as the kind of pieces (the bomber, the spencer) that he has introduced into the house’s lexicon. At a time when men’s tailoring is coming back with a vengeance, there was plenty of it here that intrigued, including jackets whose shoulder seams ran on the bias, keeping the line defined, but, apparently, allowing for more comfort and mobility. After all, how else might you convince a generation accustomed to the freedom of streetwear to try tailoring on for the first time and keep it on? The other major reference for the collection was Mick Jagger, circa the Rolling Stones tour of 1975, where the lead singer got to shake a tail feather on stage (and off) in all sorts of glossy and glittery finery. Vaccarello understands, as Jagger did, that a man never looks more masculine than when he’s in satin and sparkle. So he took the opportunity to reference the androgyny of the glam-slam ’70s with one that reflects today: the gleaming black teddy jacket whose sleeves were cut with kimono-like proportions, for instance, or an ivory satin suit, which came with a matching silk shirt left undone save for the knot at the waist. (Jagger, incidentally, who gave Vaccarello access to his vintage YSL, is returning the compliment by wearing some pieces from this collection when the Stones start their U.S. tour later this month, including the cobalt blue-to-black dégradé beaded blouson.) Egyptian clothing, as were clothes from all ancient societies, was made from locally-sourced materials. Egyptian society was one of the earliest agricultural societies. That is why the ancient Egyptians wore light clothes made from linen. Linen is made from flax – a plant that was grown along the Nile. The picture to the right shows the flax growing process. Buy this shirt:  Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt That made it difficult for Marretta to find much fresh water. For instance, we’d seen the Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt besides I will buy this pool-dappled pattern—which is very attractive—not just at Kors’s Hockney-hashing collection, but also this season at MSGM (in a collection simply enough about summer). Yet that’s not to conclude this was an altogether poor debut from Marretta, who clearly has some serious knitwear petrol in his engine following his time in Milan. The double-face wool-blend track pants and rib-knit sweaters in violently opposing lifeguard-uniform yellow and red were, as he said, fun. So were his pieces of reversible outerwear in checks that mashed Prince of Wales against argyle, which matched his a-lot-like-Birkenstock sandals. The intarsia-homage diving-figure sweater was cute. But if Marretta is going to revisit British culture through his Italian eyes, he should either do it in a completely new manner or find lesser explored but still visually compelling aspects of the culture he has moved from Armani to dive into. “I am no longer an artist; I have become a work of art,” spoke a voiceover in the middle of Prada’s Spring 2020 men’s shoe, held, for the first time off home turf, in Shanghai. (Typically Miuccia Prada prefers to show her collections in the Fondazione Prada in Milan or at her New York office.) Later, the same voice said, “I feel myself a god.” Mrs. Prada has long maintained a reverent relationship with art, supporting and collaborating with her favorite creators, without ever formally declaring herself among their ranks—no word on the god situation. So, what were we to make of the statements pronounced, at techno speed, over a blue-lit runway at the Minsheng Art Wharf? To those at home in the Pradaverse, the words, lifted from Frankie Goes to Hollywood’s Welcome to the Pleasuredome, were Prada subversion at its best. In the show notes unlike her in situ shows, Mrs. P did not assemble journalists for a debrief the collection was described as one of optimism, suggesting that being hopeful can be an antidote for accepting the darkness of our actuality. It’s a continuation of the themes she launched at her recent women’s Resort show in New York, but when presented on male models, it took on a kinkier edge.  I fought my way, using the advantage of having a small body, bending, and shoving until I got there. Okay, I think I see it! The window that a teacher stands behind. I extended my hand with the money, gasping for breath as two big girls squished me from both sides. Buy this shirt:  Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt Thus far, the SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt also I will do this shows this week have been a series of experiences. There’s been a bat mitzvah, a supper club performance by Janelle Monáe (with an invite stating a black-and-white dress code, no less), and a moving gospel choir performance inside one of Brooklyn’s oldest, most storied theaters. Some on the circuit is already ringing the death knell for the traditional runway show format, and frankly, the differentiation has helped spice things up on the newly condensed calendar. Private Policy, a label based between Shanghai and New York from Chinese designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu, did the same, opting to show their Spring 2020 unisex label with a live model presentation at a SoHo gallery alongside a series of portraits photographed by Shxpir Huang. After Fashion Week, space will turn into a pop-up shop. The images feature real Asian-American families who all styled themselves in the latest Private Policy lineup, which includes their signature checkered pattern applied to the lapels of baby pink and seafoam green skirt- and short-suit sets. There were cool, raver-Esque harness tops and ring-detailed slip dresses, along with Li and Qu’s usual streetwear tees. They’ve titled their collection “Family Dinner,” and the idea was to highlight the often emotionally intense experience of an Asian-American family gathering around food. More forward-thinking youth will sometimes clash with the elders who are tied to their generational, conservative ideologies. The portraits of the families are meant to showcase just how varied Asian-American families can be: They can have older kids, both the mother and father can work, or two Asian men can get married and start their own family together. That last example is of great importance to Li and Qu, as they want to challenge gender bias and LGBTQ discrimination in their own culture, both at home and in America. I admire Catherine re-wearing so many beautiful dresses. She even has her children wearing hand-me-downs, which is wonderful and practical, but I love the times when all the men and ladies bring out their finest clothes and have their hair styled and royalty exudes a brilliance that Hollywood cannot recreate. Those State dinners are full of glitz and glam, and watching the royals wear their sashes and special pins, which are full of meaning, is otherworldly, almost. Nothing compares. Buy this shirt:  SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt For years, Marcus Wainwright talked up Rag & Bone’s connection to the Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt but in fact I love this street, emphasizing the off-duty IRL-ness of the clothes. The design team wasn’t inattentive to trends, but it certainly didn’t follow them obsequiously. Tried-and-true essentials were the order of the day. So it was no small development to hear Wainwright say at a visit to the brand’s showroom that there’s “a call for more ‘pushed’ fashion on the men’s side.” As ever at R&B, the foundations are British tailoring, American workwear, a strong Japanese aesthetic most notable via fabrications, and a sports element. But as promised, those foundations were heightened this time around. See the pinstriping on a well-cut coat and the eye-catching color-blocking on strict military shirts, cargo pants, and tennis sweaters. The bomber with “44” embroidered on the arm that President Obama wore to a college basketball game back in February, nearly breaking the Internet in the process, was cut with a new floral-print lining made from Japanese indigo (and sans the 44 detail). Wainwright and co. made excellent use of fabrics sourced from Japan. Pull-on pants in faded indigo cotton managed to look both fashionable and essential at the same time. He should add them to the Rag & Bone women’s collection, for sure.  Rage and alienation: is this Raf Simons’s comfort zone, the place which connects him back, as a 51-year-old man, to the teenage experience his work continually fetishizes? Well, Simons doesn’t have to play nice to any bosses anymore. After his exit from Calvin Klein, he reports only to himself. And what the free Raf Simons wants to say is exactly how much he accuses and despises corporate America. Quite apart from the slogans, it was there rather clearly, breaking through on the soundtrack, a voice which intoned, “Big lie…media America, corporate America…fascist America.” Yes, Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, does wear custom made gowns for special occasions when the ladies pull out their tiaras and jewels and high heels. For the State Dinner at Buckingham Palace, Catherine wore a white ruffled gown by Alexander McQueen. No recycled outfits for a night like this. Buy this shirt:  Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt Houseago was just one in a chorus of creative voices that harmonized around this collection. Although there were some very overtly personal and Mexican touches, such as sequins reflecting China Poblana festival wear and the Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt also I will do this Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers’ association, for whose Mexican migrant pickers Owens’s father often worked as a translator in the California courts (these garments and a piece of jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW), he said he was very careful to avoid the folkloric side of Mexican culture. Instead, he said, he had become fascinated with the effect of Mexican culture on the work of Josef and Anni Albers, the subject of a recent-ish show at the Guggenheim. Owens expounded: “I loved that combination of modernism with something so ancient. Looking at the drawings they made that were inspired by the sites was the Mexico angle I wanted.” With the exception of some Perspex-heeled platforms and rough tire-sole cowskin sandals that caused much trepidation as the models descended steps while keeping their eyes fixed on the pit, it was also a collection abrim with highly wearable pieces. Personally I loved the cotton jackets in a black and white set with austere, angled grids of ribbon and lacing, which was sometimes reflected in a riot of lacing on a Veja collab sneaker and looped into the fabric of some loose wool track pants. The sequins incorporated one-color oversize tailoring and looked pleasingly sleazy, while metallic-finished outerwear boasted a brutal industrial shimmer. In collaboration with Champion, Owens primitivized its cotton jersey via transformation into togas and loincloths. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in the clothing created by Owens. The convenient accessibility to my sister’s lingerie paved the way for me to experiment which I inevitably did when home alone one day. Whilst it was a most exciting and somewhat of a nerve-wracking experience due to it being my first experience trying on panties and a slip, I was also thrilled at how the panties felt and how they looked on me when I checked in the mirror. The nylon and lace slip enhanced even further the delightful silky feeling of the silky nylon panties. The two layers of silky nylon lingerie felt so wonderfully good I did not want to take them off. Buy this shirt:  Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt besides I will buy this New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change.  Federico Curradi is finding his groove at Rochas. This annoyingly standing-format show (how to type?) was packed full of engaging all-organic garments, soft and flowing, and bohemian. Curradi said he’s trying to make an artist’s wardrobe and who doesn’t want to look like an “artist,” right? Since decamping to Paris from Florence, he’s tried to suffuse himself in Frenchness, and for this collection consulted Ed van der Elsken’s Love on the Left Bank and Helena Janeczek’s The Girl With the Leica what a story with which to conjure atmospheric touches to his garments. Inspired by Gerda Taro’s bravery and resolve (if you don’t know it, please Google her story; it’s amazing), he incorporated soft embroidery detailing on weathered military-uniform-inspired trenches and shirting in silk and cotton. Noticing my sisters panties and slips on the clothesline drying after washing and my mother neatly folding her panties and ironing her slips after the washing was brought in, kept building my interest and gave me persisting thoughts about panties and slips until it reached the stage where inexorably I felt compelled to explore trying on panties and a slip. Buy this shirt:  Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Most of this, though, was derived directly from the Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Besides,I will do this work emerging from Ruby’s sprawling California studio complex. The printed dresses and shirting featured imagery of candles and weeds shot by Ruby’s wife, Melanie Schiff. One model wore a vinyl tabard bearing the lurid coverwork of a book entitled Hex, a 1972 examination of pow-wow and murder in the Pennsylvania Dutch community amidst which he was partially raised. This childhood influence presumably also influenced the Mennonite-style dresses in bleached denim. Ruby said the stalagmite-like U.S. flag decals on his denim pieces reflected certain sculpted works; Ruby-philes will doubtless recognize many more entanglements between his artistic body of work and the beginning of this new one as they look at these clothes. Arguably the boldest element of all on show tonight was the act of a famed contemporary artist transitioning into the world of fashion design. Fashion traditionally tugs its forelock at contemporary art, while contemporary art is happy to take fashion’s sponsorship cash and revel in its assumed superiority in the creative hierarchy. Ruby, conversely, seems to be genuinely enthused by this new aspect of his practice, and who is to say his fashion will not prove as lucrative as his art? This “collection” is, in fact, not one but four collections: Some pieces went immediately on sale, see-now-buy-now style, and are presumably the fashion equivalents of print editions. Buy this shirt:  Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black

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Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt The price of fabric changes at scale too. If Stanley, Roche, and Romy could triple the Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt and by the same token and size of their businesses, perhaps their prices would come down a little, but that isn’t their goal. The larger a company gets, the more difficult it becomes to keep track of the supply chain; we all remember how certain well-known brands didn’t even know their clothes were being produced in the collapsed Rana Plaza factory. Understanding scale also explains why a higher price doesn’t always equate to better fabrics and fair labor. A polyester dress might retail for $400 because the label produced it in small quantities and paid its workers—but it’s still polyester, and you shouldn’t waste $400 on something so environmentally damaging. Or maybe the brand made it in huge quantities and used cheap labor, but hiked the price to convince you it’s an elevated product. There’s always going to be confusion when it comes to price, and some brands are always going to value “brand equity” over their workforces. The only way you’ll really know if a price is worth your hard-earned cash is by digging deeper and demanding transparency from the brands you support. On the luxury side, designers and retailers are actively discussing how to become open and honest about price and quality. By explaining the origin of their fabrics, how their clothes are made, and who makes them, the hope is that customers will shop more confidently and will be motivated to invest in the story, not just the product or trend. In theory, that concept of mindful consumption could eventually trickle down to the high street. It isn’t going to fix climate change or fashion’s murky supply chain, but it’s the best way we can begin to make a difference—and by “we,” I mean those of us in the privileged position of having money to spend and the headspace to refine our shopping habits. The common rebuttal to the “fewer, better” approach is that some people can’t afford to pay more for clothes, and that’s absolutely true. But lower-income shoppers aren’t the ones creating the mess; they aren’t buying a new dress every week and then throwing it out. The people abusing the system are the ones who could afford to buy fewer, higher-quality items, and it’s our responsibility to use our power and influence to raise the bar for everyone else. Buy this shirt:  Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Another designer might cut her costs by using cheaper fabrics or cheaper labor, but Stanley is committed to her family-run factory in Delhi, India, and won’t compromise on high-quality, organic fabrics. The only way she could lower her prices would be to take less profit or transition her business to a direct-to-consumer model, eliminating the Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Besides,I will do this retail markup. (Given the state of department stores, many of her peers are likely thinking the same thing.) In the meantime, the best thing she can do is educate her customers about precisely why her new hand-embroidered organic cotton dress costs $550. Stanley openly shared the cost breakdown here: $24 covers the organic cotton and dyes; the intricate handwork comes in at $48, because it took an embroiderer a full day to make the dress; production labor, including sewing, pattern-making, sampling, finishing, and packing, was $48; trims, including the labels, hang tag, and dust bag, were $5; shipping was $8; and duties were $24. Her total cost came to $157, and in order to keep the final price lower, she took just a 1.59x margin, bumping the wholesale price to $250. (This means Stanley would earn $93 in profit when a store orders the dress.) With the typical retail margin of 2.2x, the final price tag on the rack in a boutique is $550. I’ve been trying to make it a point to tell the story of my clothes, but it’s hard to be honest and say, ‘This is my cost, this is how much I make on this piece, this is why you should support my brand and the people who made it,’” Stanley says. “I love going to a store, and I have friends who have boutiques and work so hard. They deserve to make that margin, but the retail markup is really why clothes get so expensive. That’s where I get stuck.” If you’re of the “buy less, buy better” mentality, it isn’t hard to justify the higher price. Plenty of Stanley’s customers are investment-minded and care about her commitment to ethical, sustainable, small-batch production, but some still need to be convinced that it’s “worth” buying one of her dresses instead of five cheaper versions. Lucette Romy, the founder of The Wylde, an organic label handmade in Bali, has had similar conversations with her customers about the higher price of organic cotton, botanical dyes, and dignified labor. “But it often isn’t enough to change their minds,” she says. So she found another way to get the point across: Every item on her site comes with a cost-per-wear breakdown. Her new organic cotton dress goes for 260 Australian dollars, or $178, but if you wear it 10 times, it’s $18 per wear. Buy this shirt:  Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt There’s merit in investing in timeless pieces like quality jewelry and clothing that are built to last (even though purchasing a Cartier watch may not always be plausible). In the Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt moreover I will buy this long run, it’s more advantageous both economically and for the environment to invest in fewer, more expensive pieces crafted to withstand time, rather than indulging in trend-forward pieces that may not hold up physically or aesthetically after a few wears. Buying quality jewelry is not just about achieving a good cost-per-wear ratio— investment pieces are about longevity too. A classic piece that feels perfectly aligned with your style tends to age with grace, making it feel even more valuable as time presses on. Maybe the watch or ring you buy now will become a family heirloom, or maybe it’s something you’ll want to wear for decades. A classic trench coat will always be a wardrobe staple in transitional weather. From quality jewelry to clothing, here are the investment pieces that will stand the test of time and may even be history in the making. Read that again, and the idea of a T-shirt being “worth” $5 might seem preposterous, if not criminal. How is it possible that all of those materials, logistics, and people amount to just dollars or cents? Many of those costs are fixed; the price of cotton isn’t negotiable, even at scale. The person who made the T-shirt, on the other hand, is a lot easier to exploit. It would be reckless to claim that every low-priced good was made by an underpaid laborer, but it’s also just simple math. “It really blows my mind,” Ryan Roche said on a recent call. “I can crunch the numbers, and even with the cheapest fabrics, I don’t understand how it’s possible. Someone is sewing that T-shirt, and they’re being paid pennies.” Fast fashion’s exploitation and hidden supply chains aren’t new revelations, but when we talk about the mistreated workers or the environmental impact of disposable clothes, we’re ignoring a third impact on the consumer. The “race to the bottom” has totally ruined our perception of value; we literally have no idea what our clothes (or food, or anything else) should cost, and low prices have become so normalized that we don’t even second-guess them. In fact, despite statistics that suggest millennial and Gen Z shoppers care deeply about sustainability, the fast fashion market is actually growing—and the clothes are getting cheaper. It doesn’t help that luxury is getting more expensive in tandem. Buy this shirt:  Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt This one’s for the bay shirt As the This one’s for the bay shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this heat index steadily climbs, many of us will be seeking refuge—and social distancing—at the beach this summer, where we’ll swim, sun bask, and perhaps even squeeze in a full-body sculpting session. After all, a stretch of sand is “the perfect exercise medium,” according to the fitness guru Lydia Bach, who camouflaged some of her most effective toners as ordinary seaside activities in an Ishimuro-lensed fitness guide in Vogue’s July 1976 issue. Nearly 45 years later, those exercises—whether achieved while applying sunscreen or searching through a straw tote—are still stealth stretching and shaping at its very best. Exercises for thighs and lower stomach. Sit, legs outstretched. Leaning forward acts as a weight to thighs, makes exercise more difficult. Try to get hands past your knees on sand (near ankles is advanced strength). As you raise leg off sand, don’t let hands budge. Keep leg raised, point and flex foot 10 times. The lower you are able to lean, the more you increase stretch in lower back. Bike helmets unlock some deep-seated middle school discomfort around what is “cool.” For me, it’s enough to ruin the freeing experience of riding a bicycle in the first place. Suffice it to say: I hate helmets. Like many, I signed up for a Citibike membership as a way to get around during the pandemic. You should, of course, always wear a helmet. But I reasoned that since there weren’t any cars on the road, I could get away without one. That reasoning kind of worked during the weeks of no traffic, but as the city started opening up so did my chance of a head injury. So, much like wearing a face mask, I was compelled to do the responsible thing and find one that I could deal with. I went to Google and typed in a few key search terms: “chic bike helmets” “bike helmet fashion” and “cool helmets.” Many hours later, what I found is that no helmet is actually cool, chic, or fashionable. However, some are aesthetically better than others. I didn’t want an overly designed helmet, so that knocked out anything with an unusual shape, too much color, or a pattern. I found myself drawn towards darker solid colors (black, navy) and sleeker designs. They felt less offensive and more in line with my (all black) wardrobe. What I also learned in my research rabbit hole is that if you are going to get a helmet, which, again, you should, it should have MIPS technology (a.k.a. Buy this shirt:  This one’s for the bay shirt The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Omsom’s co-founders are Vanessa and Kim Pham, two first-generation Vietnamese American sisters who sought to bring proud, loud Asian flavors into American homes that didn’t sacrifice cultural integrity, either. As the The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Besides,I will do this Pham sisters tell Vogue, they wished to “reclaim and celebrate Asian flavors, Asian stories, and Asian culture.” Vanessa describes walking down the “ethnic” aisle in mainstream grocery stores, where she and her sister noticed a big disconnect between the items available on shelves and who they served (and didn’t).“A lot of those products were not made with folks like us in the room. And so, that was just a fundamental cornerstone of our business since day one,” says Kim. The sisters decided to join forces to create Omsom. Kim, brought her 10-year-long experience working with startups in venture capital while Vanessa, a graduate from Harvard, had a breadth of business-savvy experience working at Bain & Company advising Fortune 500 companies. The key to Omsom’s brilliance is that it solves a simple, yet common dilemma so many first-generation Asian-Americans can relate to—trying to recreate convoluted recipes our parents used to make with little to no access to the myriad of ingredients required and a lack of knowledge and understanding on how to actually make these dishes. For me, one of the most difficult parts of Asian cooking has always been exactly this—finding the right ingredients to bring the rich, bold Vietnamese flavors to life. The right seasonings, chilis, sauces can make for a grocery list that extends 10 items or longer. Kim similarly shares, “I would be on the phone with mom, [with] mom being like, ‘Add the right amount of fish sauce.’ And we’d be like, ‘Five teaspoons or tablespoons?’” says Kim. But here, this process is made simple in one easy-to-use sauce packet. For Kim and Vanessa, their connection with food has been present throughout their lives. Food has “been a way that we connect with our identity and understand our culture,” says Vanessa, who in fact, recalls mentioning her favorite Vietnamese soup dish “Bun Bo Hue” (a beef and vermicelli noodle soup) in the starting line of her college essay. For many Asian families (mine included) love was conveyed through food. “Food was always a huge part of our family, but in many ways, quite unspoken. You might not say, ‘I love you,’ but you’ll put a piece of fruit [out] to apologize,” says Kim. “We’ve found it to be an important language, in a way, for us to reclaim what it means to share Asian culture in a way that’s undiluted,” Vanessa adds. 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Vegetable Kingdom, with its recipes heralding everything from peas to summer squashes to spinach, further cements the role of vegetables no longer as just the side dish, but as the main affair, too. Yet, Vegetable Kingdom also champions a rich variety of global cuisines: Terry, the chef-in-residence at San Francisco’s MoAD, emphasizes ingredients and cooking styles of the African diaspora, whereas his wife, Jidian Terry Koon, does so with a variety of Asian flavors, from Chinese to Vietnamese. Kingdom reflects those culinary cultures, and many more—Terry notes that fennel, a hearty Mediterranean vegetable, sparked the inspiration for this book. Make the zucchini: Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, toss the zucchini with the olive oil and salt, then spread the zucchini over the baking sheet in one even layer. Roast until the zucchini is brown around the edges, 18 to 20 minutes. To serve, transfer the zucchini to a bowl and give it a few turns of pepper. Next, drop in a few heaping dollops of pesto so that people can scoop as much as they’d like when serving themselves, adding more pesto to the bowl as needed. Pile the peanuts in a small serving bowl and present alongside the zucchini. Make the pesto: In a food processor, combine the collards, peanuts, miso, and garlic and blend until it forms a chunky paste. While the food processor is running, slowly pour in the olive oil through the feed tube, adding more if needed to reach your desired consistency. Season with salt, pepper, and additional lemon juice to taste. Set aside. Buy this shirt:  Team Godzilla shirt Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt She has dressed up a crop top and leggings with a blazer, and slipped on cozy streetwear, among other moments. But her latest sighting is especially pleasing to fans of ‘90s rock bands and comfortable clothes alike. Yesterday, Turner and Jonas took a stroll in Los Angeles together, and Turner wore an oversized band tee from Oasis and a mask. She sported an oversized top the Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt But I will love this ’90s English rock band known for hits such as “Wonderwall” and “Don’t Look Back In Anger.” The star styled her merch with mini shorts and slide sandals. It’s a striking look for a few reasons. First, the band choice itself: was Turner’s ode to the group inspired by a recent listen of Spotify’s ’90s playlist? Does she also have “Wonderwall” stuck in her head? Her fit also the perfect balance of what maternity style should be: it’s cute and comfy, with a dash of individuality. Jonas, meanwhile, wore a Hawaiian-print shirt with black jeans and sneakers—proving he, too, is making dad-to-be style cool. Let’s also talk about their coordinated face masks. Turner’s printed mask complemented Jonas’s galaxy-printed one by Werkshop. They didn’t match exactly (are couples meant to match masks now?) It’s only practical to buy masks in bulk; so why not double up on masks and start making it a couple style moment? Only time will tell if Jonas and Turner will start doing so. But for now, they’re clearly nailing the expectant parent look. Two years ago, when Andrea Kerzner—founder of the nonprofit Lalela, and daughter of South African super-hotelier Sol Kerzner—discovered how the meat industry was fueling climate change, she decided to open a casual plant-based restaurant that focused on the ultimate comfort food: burgers. She set out to find the best chef for the job, interviewing several candidates before finding Amanda Cohen, the executive chef and owner of Dirt Candy, an award-winning vegetarian restaurant that has been in New York City since 2008. “I met with Amanda and literally there and then I could see her passion for food,” says Kerzner. “Within 24 hours, she agreed to work with me.” The two set about creating Lekka (Afrikaans slang for “delicious”), an all-vegan restaurant that opens November 19th in Tribeca. The restaurant’s signature dish is a vegan burger, served five different ways. For Cohen, creating a plant-based burger required overcoming some of her own prejudices. “We haven’t had a burger ever on the menu at Dirt Candy. And I had been against it, to be brutally honest,” says Cohen. “ Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt This year’s CFDA Awards were a casualty of the Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt and by the same token and COVID-19 pandemic. Originally scheduled for Monday, June 8, they would’ve kicked off NYFW: Resort and New York’s June men’s collections, both of which were likewise canceled. But the show must go on—virtually at least. This year’s winners will be announced on both CFDA.com and the CFDA’s social channels on Monday, September 14, which is the first day of a shortened New York Fashion Week. It too is shaping up to be a largely digital affair. The awards would’ve been the first presided over by Ford as chairman. He had been planning changes, instituting two new prizes, the global women’s designer of the year and the global men’s designer of the year, to replace the international award, which last year went to Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen. In lieu of the in-person event, we will be prioritizing new and existing programming to support our designer community during the global pandemic—by redirecting efforts towards next-generation scholarships and making important changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry,” said Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA, in the same statement. Racial equity remains an issue in the industry, however. Of the 15 designers nominated in the top American awards categories, only Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Telfar Clemens, and Peter Do are people of color. The emerging designer category is more diverse and includes Christopher John Rogers, who was last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner. Summer has officially arrived as of last week, and while June swiftly turns into July, the days are growing warmer and warmer, thus affecting our closets. This year, the best clothing sales will make it easier to shop for summery pieces like dresses and tops that stand up well in the hot days ahead, understanding that our wardrobes will look a bit different than in year’s past. With so much time spent at home, on-trend pieces like clog sandals (or any kind of special shoe) have quickly taken a backseat to tried-and-true wardrobe essentials, like crisp white dress shirts that will have you Zoom-ready in a pinch, or soft tees that pair well with sweats and jeans. Basics that can be worn day in and day out, whether at home or out and about (following social distancing precautions, of course), have unexpectedly climbed the ranks to become must-haves this summer. Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt Perry Ellis has a lot going for it in 2019. The brand recently launched the Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt it is in the first place but nostalgia-soaked diffusion line called Perry Ellis America, made up exclusively of archival pieces plucked from its ’80s heyday. Think: color-blocked windbreakers, logo’d hoodies, and track pants. (Justin and Hailey Bieber are already fans.) As for the mainline, Perry Ellis has always been a brand known for its prints, and the “look” of this summer was indisputably a boldly printed camp shirt. Guys wore them over T-shirts and girls wore them with bike shorts; it’s a happily unisex trend. Creative Director Michael Maccari said the women in his office frequently shop the collection, and they’ve likely called dibs on the Spring 2020 shirts that mimic abstract paintings. Those shirts merged Maccari’s two key influences: the Luca Guadagnino film A Bigger Splash (set in Sicily and starring Tilda Swinton and Ralph Fiennes) and the artwork of David Hockney. Maccari was designing the collection last fall, just after one of Hockney’s famous swimming pool paintings sold for $90 million, making him the priciest living artist in history (though he was surpassed by Jeff Koons in May). Hockney’s crisp, deeply saturated paintings of water and nature informed the painterly prints, while the artist’s own preppy style informed the “nerdy” knit polos. Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt There’s nothing like a good Philipp Plein show to round off a super-long, super-Saturday of Milan shows. And this was nothing like a good Philipp Plein show. Joke! In fact, this Plein outing was perfectly bearable, and the Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this clothes whisper it had some redeeming features. Following January’s blessedly straightforward reset, at which the centrally located runway featured The Killers and a not-killer but okay collection, Munich’s most famous Ferrari-favoring mountain-buying no longer an infant but eternally terrible Swiss-based (for tax reasons) fashion iconoclast had apparently got the message. This was another show full of bombast and performance, but it zinged along promptly. Unless the looming lightning on the horizon ended things early, it looked like the after-party that was shaping up when we left was going to be fun (for those in the mood). The crowd that was apparently watching from the balcony of the Fondazione Prada alongside were probably not in that mood. Part of Plein’s shtick has always been that he is here to storm the ivory towers such as that Fondazione of fashion. Tonight he sounded like the grizzliest gatekeeper of them all as he spoke at impassioned length of the dangers of over-discounting something that certain shareholder driven online wholesale retailers (naming no names) favor boosting short-term revenue results—in affecting the overall perception of a brand. He was passingly scurrilous, on the purpose of course, about labels that are not his own, but it is not Vogue Runway’s job to stir the pot on others’ behalf. Another subject we got into was his reported efforts to acquire the Roberto Cavalli brand. These turn out to be true, and were the subject, he said, of four months’ focus, but have, for reasons too niche and potentially litigious to Regardless of what era, the material was always very simple and usually white. They liked the dresses to have a lot of style to them, such as pleating. In the Old Kingdom, they usually wore horizontal pleating, whereas, in the New Kingdom, it was generally vertical. During the Middle Kingdom, pleating was much more extensive. Sometimes it would be horizontal with vertical pleating overlapping. How they achieved this pleated look is unknown. During the New Kingdom period it became fashionable for dresses to be pleated or draped. Occasionally women would have feathers and beading across the chest area, but mostly the cloth was bare. They decorated their clothes with details using feather, embroidery, sequin and pieces of jewellery to make them more attractive to the gods and headdresses. Buy this shirt:  Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt The major starting point for the Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt also I will do this collection, Vaccarello said at a preview, was Marrakech in the ’70s (YSL was a habituée) reimagined as 21st-century Los Angeles, a city that resides on Vaccarello’s own emotional landscape. (He first visited when he was 14, and there have been many return visits.) While that’s some geographical leap, it’s not an unimaginable one; both locations speak to a yearning for a certain bohemian, free-spirited, almost mystical escape. “You come to L.A. for vacation,” Vaccarello said. “You can disconnect from the rest of the world.” The Morocco-by-way-of-LA-isms were smartly and sparingly deployed throughout the collection and considered flourishes, not theme-gone-wild. The tasseled hoods, djellaba shirting, and embroideries of tiny silver discs suspended from chains amplified the rigor of the classic YSL vestiaire that Vaccarello has been busy exploring (the saharienne, the sharp-as-a-tack tux) as well as the kind of pieces (the bomber, the spencer) that he has introduced into the house’s lexicon. At a time when men’s tailoring is coming back with a vengeance, there was plenty of it here that intrigued, including jackets whose shoulder seams ran on the bias, keeping the line defined, but, apparently, allowing for more comfort and mobility. After all, how else might you convince a generation accustomed to the freedom of streetwear to try tailoring on for the first time and keep it on? The other major reference for the collection was Mick Jagger, circa the Rolling Stones tour of 1975, where the lead singer got to shake a tail feather on stage (and off) in all sorts of glossy and glittery finery. Vaccarello understands, as Jagger did, that a man never looks more masculine than when he’s in satin and sparkle. So he took the opportunity to reference the androgyny of the glam-slam ’70s with one that reflects today: the gleaming black teddy jacket whose sleeves were cut with kimono-like proportions, for instance, or an ivory satin suit, which came with a matching silk shirt left undone save for the knot at the waist. (Jagger, incidentally, who gave Vaccarello access to his vintage YSL, is returning the compliment by wearing some pieces from this collection when the Stones start their U.S. tour later this month, including the cobalt blue-to-black dégradé beaded blouson.) Egyptian clothing, as were clothes from all ancient societies, was made from locally-sourced materials. Egyptian society was one of the earliest agricultural societies. That is why the ancient Egyptians wore light clothes made from linen. Linen is made from flax – a plant that was grown along the Nile. The picture to the right shows the flax growing process. Buy this shirt:  Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt That made it difficult for Marretta to find much fresh water. For instance, we’d seen the Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt besides I will buy this pool-dappled pattern—which is very attractive—not just at Kors’s Hockney-hashing collection, but also this season at MSGM (in a collection simply enough about summer). Yet that’s not to conclude this was an altogether poor debut from Marretta, who clearly has some serious knitwear petrol in his engine following his time in Milan. The double-face wool-blend track pants and rib-knit sweaters in violently opposing lifeguard-uniform yellow and red were, as he said, fun. So were his pieces of reversible outerwear in checks that mashed Prince of Wales against argyle, which matched his a-lot-like-Birkenstock sandals. The intarsia-homage diving-figure sweater was cute. But if Marretta is going to revisit British culture through his Italian eyes, he should either do it in a completely new manner or find lesser explored but still visually compelling aspects of the culture he has moved from Armani to dive into. “I am no longer an artist; I have become a work of art,” spoke a voiceover in the middle of Prada’s Spring 2020 men’s shoe, held, for the first time off home turf, in Shanghai. (Typically Miuccia Prada prefers to show her collections in the Fondazione Prada in Milan or at her New York office.) Later, the same voice said, “I feel myself a god.” Mrs. Prada has long maintained a reverent relationship with art, supporting and collaborating with her favorite creators, without ever formally declaring herself among their ranks—no word on the god situation. So, what were we to make of the statements pronounced, at techno speed, over a blue-lit runway at the Minsheng Art Wharf? To those at home in the Pradaverse, the words, lifted from Frankie Goes to Hollywood’s Welcome to the Pleasuredome, were Prada subversion at its best. In the show notes unlike her in situ shows, Mrs. P did not assemble journalists for a debrief the collection was described as one of optimism, suggesting that being hopeful can be an antidote for accepting the darkness of our actuality. It’s a continuation of the themes she launched at her recent women’s Resort show in New York, but when presented on male models, it took on a kinkier edge.  I fought my way, using the advantage of having a small body, bending, and shoving until I got there. Okay, I think I see it! The window that a teacher stands behind. I extended my hand with the money, gasping for breath as two big girls squished me from both sides. Buy this shirt:  Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt Thus far, the SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt also I will do this shows this week have been a series of experiences. There’s been a bat mitzvah, a supper club performance by Janelle Monáe (with an invite stating a black-and-white dress code, no less), and a moving gospel choir performance inside one of Brooklyn’s oldest, most storied theaters. Some on the circuit is already ringing the death knell for the traditional runway show format, and frankly, the differentiation has helped spice things up on the newly condensed calendar. Private Policy, a label based between Shanghai and New York from Chinese designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu, did the same, opting to show their Spring 2020 unisex label with a live model presentation at a SoHo gallery alongside a series of portraits photographed by Shxpir Huang. After Fashion Week, space will turn into a pop-up shop. The images feature real Asian-American families who all styled themselves in the latest Private Policy lineup, which includes their signature checkered pattern applied to the lapels of baby pink and seafoam green skirt- and short-suit sets. There were cool, raver-Esque harness tops and ring-detailed slip dresses, along with Li and Qu’s usual streetwear tees. They’ve titled their collection “Family Dinner,” and the idea was to highlight the often emotionally intense experience of an Asian-American family gathering around food. More forward-thinking youth will sometimes clash with the elders who are tied to their generational, conservative ideologies. The portraits of the families are meant to showcase just how varied Asian-American families can be: They can have older kids, both the mother and father can work, or two Asian men can get married and start their own family together. That last example is of great importance to Li and Qu, as they want to challenge gender bias and LGBTQ discrimination in their own culture, both at home and in America. I admire Catherine re-wearing so many beautiful dresses. She even has her children wearing hand-me-downs, which is wonderful and practical, but I love the times when all the men and ladies bring out their finest clothes and have their hair styled and royalty exudes a brilliance that Hollywood cannot recreate. Those State dinners are full of glitz and glam, and watching the royals wear their sashes and special pins, which are full of meaning, is otherworldly, almost. Nothing compares. Buy this shirt:  SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt For years, Marcus Wainwright talked up Rag & Bone’s connection to the Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt but in fact I love this street, emphasizing the off-duty IRL-ness of the clothes. The design team wasn’t inattentive to trends, but it certainly didn’t follow them obsequiously. Tried-and-true essentials were the order of the day. So it was no small development to hear Wainwright say at a visit to the brand’s showroom that there’s “a call for more ‘pushed’ fashion on the men’s side.” As ever at R&B, the foundations are British tailoring, American workwear, a strong Japanese aesthetic most notable via fabrications, and a sports element. But as promised, those foundations were heightened this time around. See the pinstriping on a well-cut coat and the eye-catching color-blocking on strict military shirts, cargo pants, and tennis sweaters. The bomber with “44” embroidered on the arm that President Obama wore to a college basketball game back in February, nearly breaking the Internet in the process, was cut with a new floral-print lining made from Japanese indigo (and sans the 44 detail). Wainwright and co. made excellent use of fabrics sourced from Japan. Pull-on pants in faded indigo cotton managed to look both fashionable and essential at the same time. He should add them to the Rag & Bone women’s collection, for sure.  Rage and alienation: is this Raf Simons’s comfort zone, the place which connects him back, as a 51-year-old man, to the teenage experience his work continually fetishizes? Well, Simons doesn’t have to play nice to any bosses anymore. After his exit from Calvin Klein, he reports only to himself. And what the free Raf Simons wants to say is exactly how much he accuses and despises corporate America. Quite apart from the slogans, it was there rather clearly, breaking through on the soundtrack, a voice which intoned, “Big lie…media America, corporate America…fascist America.” Yes, Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, does wear custom made gowns for special occasions when the ladies pull out their tiaras and jewels and high heels. For the State Dinner at Buckingham Palace, Catherine wore a white ruffled gown by Alexander McQueen. No recycled outfits for a night like this. Buy this shirt:  Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt Houseago was just one in a chorus of creative voices that harmonized around this collection. Although there were some very overtly personal and Mexican touches, such as sequins reflecting China Poblana festival wear and the Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt also I will do this Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers’ association, for whose Mexican migrant pickers Owens’s father often worked as a translator in the California courts (these garments and a piece of jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW), he said he was very careful to avoid the folkloric side of Mexican culture. Instead, he said, he had become fascinated with the effect of Mexican culture on the work of Josef and Anni Albers, the subject of a recent-ish show at the Guggenheim. Owens expounded: “I loved that combination of modernism with something so ancient. Looking at the drawings they made that were inspired by the sites was the Mexico angle I wanted.” With the exception of some Perspex-heeled platforms and rough tire-sole cowskin sandals that caused much trepidation as the models descended steps while keeping their eyes fixed on the pit, it was also a collection abrim with highly wearable pieces. Personally I loved the cotton jackets in a black and white set with austere, angled grids of ribbon and lacing, which was sometimes reflected in a riot of lacing on a Veja collab sneaker and looped into the fabric of some loose wool track pants. The sequins incorporated one-color oversize tailoring and looked pleasingly sleazy, while metallic-finished outerwear boasted a brutal industrial shimmer. In collaboration with Champion, Owens primitivized its cotton jersey via transformation into togas and loincloths. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in the clothing created by Owens. The convenient accessibility to my sister’s lingerie paved the way for me to experiment which I inevitably did when home alone one day. Whilst it was a most exciting and somewhat of a nerve-wracking experience due to it being my first experience trying on panties and a slip, I was also thrilled at how the panties felt and how they looked on me when I checked in the mirror. The nylon and lace slip enhanced even further the delightful silky feeling of the silky nylon panties. The two layers of silky nylon lingerie felt so wonderfully good I did not want to take them off. Buy this shirt:  Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt besides I will buy this New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change.  Federico Curradi is finding his groove at Rochas. This annoyingly standing-format show (how to type?) was packed full of engaging all-organic garments, soft and flowing, and bohemian. Curradi said he’s trying to make an artist’s wardrobe and who doesn’t want to look like an “artist,” right? Since decamping to Paris from Florence, he’s tried to suffuse himself in Frenchness, and for this collection consulted Ed van der Elsken’s Love on the Left Bank and Helena Janeczek’s The Girl With the Leica what a story with which to conjure atmospheric touches to his garments. Inspired by Gerda Taro’s bravery and resolve (if you don’t know it, please Google her story; it’s amazing), he incorporated soft embroidery detailing on weathered military-uniform-inspired trenches and shirting in silk and cotton. Noticing my sisters panties and slips on the clothesline drying after washing and my mother neatly folding her panties and ironing her slips after the washing was brought in, kept building my interest and gave me persisting thoughts about panties and slips until it reached the stage where inexorably I felt compelled to explore trying on panties and a slip. Buy this shirt:  Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Most of this, though, was derived directly from the Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Besides,I will do this work emerging from Ruby’s sprawling California studio complex. The printed dresses and shirting featured imagery of candles and weeds shot by Ruby’s wife, Melanie Schiff. One model wore a vinyl tabard bearing the lurid coverwork of a book entitled Hex, a 1972 examination of pow-wow and murder in the Pennsylvania Dutch community amidst which he was partially raised. This childhood influence presumably also influenced the Mennonite-style dresses in bleached denim. Ruby said the stalagmite-like U.S. flag decals on his denim pieces reflected certain sculpted works; Ruby-philes will doubtless recognize many more entanglements between his artistic body of work and the beginning of this new one as they look at these clothes. Arguably the boldest element of all on show tonight was the act of a famed contemporary artist transitioning into the world of fashion design. Fashion traditionally tugs its forelock at contemporary art, while contemporary art is happy to take fashion’s sponsorship cash and revel in its assumed superiority in the creative hierarchy. Ruby, conversely, seems to be genuinely enthused by this new aspect of his practice, and who is to say his fashion will not prove as lucrative as his art? This “collection” is, in fact, not one but four collections: Some pieces went immediately on sale, see-now-buy-now style, and are presumably the fashion equivalents of print editions. Buy this shirt:  Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt The price of fabric changes at scale too. If Stanley, Roche, and Romy could triple the Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt and by the same token and size of their businesses, perhaps their prices would come down a little, but that isn’t their goal. The larger a company gets, the more difficult it becomes to keep track of the supply chain; we all remember how certain well-known brands didn’t even know their clothes were being produced in the collapsed Rana Plaza factory. Understanding scale also explains why a higher price doesn’t always equate to better fabrics and fair labor. A polyester dress might retail for $400 because the label produced it in small quantities and paid its workers—but it’s still polyester, and you shouldn’t waste $400 on something so environmentally damaging. Or maybe the brand made it in huge quantities and used cheap labor, but hiked the price to convince you it’s an elevated product. There’s always going to be confusion when it comes to price, and some brands are always going to value “brand equity” over their workforces. The only way you’ll really know if a price is worth your hard-earned cash is by digging deeper and demanding transparency from the brands you support. On the luxury side, designers and retailers are actively discussing how to become open and honest about price and quality. By explaining the origin of their fabrics, how their clothes are made, and who makes them, the hope is that customers will shop more confidently and will be motivated to invest in the story, not just the product or trend. In theory, that concept of mindful consumption could eventually trickle down to the high street. It isn’t going to fix climate change or fashion’s murky supply chain, but it’s the best way we can begin to make a difference—and by “we,” I mean those of us in the privileged position of having money to spend and the headspace to refine our shopping habits. The common rebuttal to the “fewer, better” approach is that some people can’t afford to pay more for clothes, and that’s absolutely true. But lower-income shoppers aren’t the ones creating the mess; they aren’t buying a new dress every week and then throwing it out. The people abusing the system are the ones who could afford to buy fewer, higher-quality items, and it’s our responsibility to use our power and influence to raise the bar for everyone else. Buy this shirt:  Warren Buffett buy the FKN dip shirt Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Another designer might cut her costs by using cheaper fabrics or cheaper labor, but Stanley is committed to her family-run factory in Delhi, India, and won’t compromise on high-quality, organic fabrics. The only way she could lower her prices would be to take less profit or transition her business to a direct-to-consumer model, eliminating the Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Besides,I will do this retail markup. (Given the state of department stores, many of her peers are likely thinking the same thing.) In the meantime, the best thing she can do is educate her customers about precisely why her new hand-embroidered organic cotton dress costs $550. Stanley openly shared the cost breakdown here: $24 covers the organic cotton and dyes; the intricate handwork comes in at $48, because it took an embroiderer a full day to make the dress; production labor, including sewing, pattern-making, sampling, finishing, and packing, was $48; trims, including the labels, hang tag, and dust bag, were $5; shipping was $8; and duties were $24. Her total cost came to $157, and in order to keep the final price lower, she took just a 1.59x margin, bumping the wholesale price to $250. (This means Stanley would earn $93 in profit when a store orders the dress.) With the typical retail margin of 2.2x, the final price tag on the rack in a boutique is $550. I’ve been trying to make it a point to tell the story of my clothes, but it’s hard to be honest and say, ‘This is my cost, this is how much I make on this piece, this is why you should support my brand and the people who made it,’” Stanley says. “I love going to a store, and I have friends who have boutiques and work so hard. They deserve to make that margin, but the retail markup is really why clothes get so expensive. That’s where I get stuck.” If you’re of the “buy less, buy better” mentality, it isn’t hard to justify the higher price. Plenty of Stanley’s customers are investment-minded and care about her commitment to ethical, sustainable, small-batch production, but some still need to be convinced that it’s “worth” buying one of her dresses instead of five cheaper versions. Lucette Romy, the founder of The Wylde, an organic label handmade in Bali, has had similar conversations with her customers about the higher price of organic cotton, botanical dyes, and dignified labor. “But it often isn’t enough to change their minds,” she says. So she found another way to get the point across: Every item on her site comes with a cost-per-wear breakdown. Her new organic cotton dress goes for 260 Australian dollars, or $178, but if you wear it 10 times, it’s $18 per wear. Buy this shirt:  Unicorn some things are just best said with an eye roll shirt Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt There’s merit in investing in timeless pieces like quality jewelry and clothing that are built to last (even though purchasing a Cartier watch may not always be plausible). In the Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt moreover I will buy this long run, it’s more advantageous both economically and for the environment to invest in fewer, more expensive pieces crafted to withstand time, rather than indulging in trend-forward pieces that may not hold up physically or aesthetically after a few wears. Buying quality jewelry is not just about achieving a good cost-per-wear ratio— investment pieces are about longevity too. A classic piece that feels perfectly aligned with your style tends to age with grace, making it feel even more valuable as time presses on. Maybe the watch or ring you buy now will become a family heirloom, or maybe it’s something you’ll want to wear for decades. A classic trench coat will always be a wardrobe staple in transitional weather. From quality jewelry to clothing, here are the investment pieces that will stand the test of time and may even be history in the making. Read that again, and the idea of a T-shirt being “worth” $5 might seem preposterous, if not criminal. How is it possible that all of those materials, logistics, and people amount to just dollars or cents? Many of those costs are fixed; the price of cotton isn’t negotiable, even at scale. The person who made the T-shirt, on the other hand, is a lot easier to exploit. It would be reckless to claim that every low-priced good was made by an underpaid laborer, but it’s also just simple math. “It really blows my mind,” Ryan Roche said on a recent call. “I can crunch the numbers, and even with the cheapest fabrics, I don’t understand how it’s possible. Someone is sewing that T-shirt, and they’re being paid pennies.” Fast fashion’s exploitation and hidden supply chains aren’t new revelations, but when we talk about the mistreated workers or the environmental impact of disposable clothes, we’re ignoring a third impact on the consumer. The “race to the bottom” has totally ruined our perception of value; we literally have no idea what our clothes (or food, or anything else) should cost, and low prices have become so normalized that we don’t even second-guess them. In fact, despite statistics that suggest millennial and Gen Z shoppers care deeply about sustainability, the fast fashion market is actually growing—and the clothes are getting cheaper. It doesn’t help that luxury is getting more expensive in tandem. Buy this shirt:  Unicorn I have no clue why I’m out of bed shirt This one’s for the bay shirt As the This one’s for the bay shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this heat index steadily climbs, many of us will be seeking refuge—and social distancing—at the beach this summer, where we’ll swim, sun bask, and perhaps even squeeze in a full-body sculpting session. After all, a stretch of sand is “the perfect exercise medium,” according to the fitness guru Lydia Bach, who camouflaged some of her most effective toners as ordinary seaside activities in an Ishimuro-lensed fitness guide in Vogue’s July 1976 issue. Nearly 45 years later, those exercises—whether achieved while applying sunscreen or searching through a straw tote—are still stealth stretching and shaping at its very best. Exercises for thighs and lower stomach. Sit, legs outstretched. Leaning forward acts as a weight to thighs, makes exercise more difficult. Try to get hands past your knees on sand (near ankles is advanced strength). As you raise leg off sand, don’t let hands budge. Keep leg raised, point and flex foot 10 times. The lower you are able to lean, the more you increase stretch in lower back. Bike helmets unlock some deep-seated middle school discomfort around what is “cool.” For me, it’s enough to ruin the freeing experience of riding a bicycle in the first place. Suffice it to say: I hate helmets. Like many, I signed up for a Citibike membership as a way to get around during the pandemic. You should, of course, always wear a helmet. But I reasoned that since there weren’t any cars on the road, I could get away without one. That reasoning kind of worked during the weeks of no traffic, but as the city started opening up so did my chance of a head injury. So, much like wearing a face mask, I was compelled to do the responsible thing and find one that I could deal with. I went to Google and typed in a few key search terms: “chic bike helmets” “bike helmet fashion” and “cool helmets.” Many hours later, what I found is that no helmet is actually cool, chic, or fashionable. However, some are aesthetically better than others. I didn’t want an overly designed helmet, so that knocked out anything with an unusual shape, too much color, or a pattern. I found myself drawn towards darker solid colors (black, navy) and sleeker designs. They felt less offensive and more in line with my (all black) wardrobe. What I also learned in my research rabbit hole is that if you are going to get a helmet, which, again, you should, it should have MIPS technology (a.k.a. Buy this shirt:  This one’s for the bay shirt The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Omsom’s co-founders are Vanessa and Kim Pham, two first-generation Vietnamese American sisters who sought to bring proud, loud Asian flavors into American homes that didn’t sacrifice cultural integrity, either. As the The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Besides,I will do this Pham sisters tell Vogue, they wished to “reclaim and celebrate Asian flavors, Asian stories, and Asian culture.” Vanessa describes walking down the “ethnic” aisle in mainstream grocery stores, where she and her sister noticed a big disconnect between the items available on shelves and who they served (and didn’t).“A lot of those products were not made with folks like us in the room. And so, that was just a fundamental cornerstone of our business since day one,” says Kim. The sisters decided to join forces to create Omsom. Kim, brought her 10-year-long experience working with startups in venture capital while Vanessa, a graduate from Harvard, had a breadth of business-savvy experience working at Bain & Company advising Fortune 500 companies. The key to Omsom’s brilliance is that it solves a simple, yet common dilemma so many first-generation Asian-Americans can relate to—trying to recreate convoluted recipes our parents used to make with little to no access to the myriad of ingredients required and a lack of knowledge and understanding on how to actually make these dishes. For me, one of the most difficult parts of Asian cooking has always been exactly this—finding the right ingredients to bring the rich, bold Vietnamese flavors to life. The right seasonings, chilis, sauces can make for a grocery list that extends 10 items or longer. Kim similarly shares, “I would be on the phone with mom, [with] mom being like, ‘Add the right amount of fish sauce.’ And we’d be like, ‘Five teaspoons or tablespoons?’” says Kim. But here, this process is made simple in one easy-to-use sauce packet. For Kim and Vanessa, their connection with food has been present throughout their lives. Food has “been a way that we connect with our identity and understand our culture,” says Vanessa, who in fact, recalls mentioning her favorite Vietnamese soup dish “Bun Bo Hue” (a beef and vermicelli noodle soup) in the starting line of her college essay. For many Asian families (mine included) love was conveyed through food. “Food was always a huge part of our family, but in many ways, quite unspoken. You might not say, ‘I love you,’ but you’ll put a piece of fruit [out] to apologize,” says Kim. “We’ve found it to be an important language, in a way, for us to reclaim what it means to share Asian culture in a way that’s undiluted,” Vanessa adds. Buy this shirt:  The Acclaimed have arrived shirt Team Godzilla shirt This recipe is inspired by courgettes avec des arachides (French for ‘zucchini with peanuts’), a classic dish from the Team Godzilla shirt and I will buy this north-central African country Chad,” says chef Bryant Terry of his oven-roasted zucchini recipe, a simple dish dressed up with the addition of collard-peanut pesto. Perfect to bring to any socially-distanced barbecues this summer, it’s just one of many innovative vegan offerings found in Terry’s new cookbook, Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes. Over the past few years, veganism has moved from a lifestyle choice firmly into the mainstream: in 2019, The Economist reported a quarter of 25 to 34-year-olds were either vegan or vegetarian. Disney World has over 400 plant-based menu options, and Burger King now serves the Impossible Whopper. Vegetable Kingdom, with its recipes heralding everything from peas to summer squashes to spinach, further cements the role of vegetables no longer as just the side dish, but as the main affair, too. Yet, Vegetable Kingdom also champions a rich variety of global cuisines: Terry, the chef-in-residence at San Francisco’s MoAD, emphasizes ingredients and cooking styles of the African diaspora, whereas his wife, Jidian Terry Koon, does so with a variety of Asian flavors, from Chinese to Vietnamese. Kingdom reflects those culinary cultures, and many more—Terry notes that fennel, a hearty Mediterranean vegetable, sparked the inspiration for this book. Make the zucchini: Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, toss the zucchini with the olive oil and salt, then spread the zucchini over the baking sheet in one even layer. Roast until the zucchini is brown around the edges, 18 to 20 minutes. To serve, transfer the zucchini to a bowl and give it a few turns of pepper. Next, drop in a few heaping dollops of pesto so that people can scoop as much as they’d like when serving themselves, adding more pesto to the bowl as needed. Pile the peanuts in a small serving bowl and present alongside the zucchini. Make the pesto: In a food processor, combine the collards, peanuts, miso, and garlic and blend until it forms a chunky paste. While the food processor is running, slowly pour in the olive oil through the feed tube, adding more if needed to reach your desired consistency. Season with salt, pepper, and additional lemon juice to taste. Set aside. Buy this shirt:  Team Godzilla shirt Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt She has dressed up a crop top and leggings with a blazer, and slipped on cozy streetwear, among other moments. But her latest sighting is especially pleasing to fans of ‘90s rock bands and comfortable clothes alike. Yesterday, Turner and Jonas took a stroll in Los Angeles together, and Turner wore an oversized band tee from Oasis and a mask. She sported an oversized top the Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt But I will love this ’90s English rock band known for hits such as “Wonderwall” and “Don’t Look Back In Anger.” The star styled her merch with mini shorts and slide sandals. It’s a striking look for a few reasons. First, the band choice itself: was Turner’s ode to the group inspired by a recent listen of Spotify’s ’90s playlist? Does she also have “Wonderwall” stuck in her head? Her fit also the perfect balance of what maternity style should be: it’s cute and comfy, with a dash of individuality. Jonas, meanwhile, wore a Hawaiian-print shirt with black jeans and sneakers—proving he, too, is making dad-to-be style cool. Let’s also talk about their coordinated face masks. Turner’s printed mask complemented Jonas’s galaxy-printed one by Werkshop. They didn’t match exactly (are couples meant to match masks now?) It’s only practical to buy masks in bulk; so why not double up on masks and start making it a couple style moment? Only time will tell if Jonas and Turner will start doing so. But for now, they’re clearly nailing the expectant parent look. Two years ago, when Andrea Kerzner—founder of the nonprofit Lalela, and daughter of South African super-hotelier Sol Kerzner—discovered how the meat industry was fueling climate change, she decided to open a casual plant-based restaurant that focused on the ultimate comfort food: burgers. She set out to find the best chef for the job, interviewing several candidates before finding Amanda Cohen, the executive chef and owner of Dirt Candy, an award-winning vegetarian restaurant that has been in New York City since 2008. “I met with Amanda and literally there and then I could see her passion for food,” says Kerzner. “Within 24 hours, she agreed to work with me.” The two set about creating Lekka (Afrikaans slang for “delicious”), an all-vegan restaurant that opens November 19th in Tribeca. The restaurant’s signature dish is a vegan burger, served five different ways. For Cohen, creating a plant-based burger required overcoming some of her own prejudices. “We haven’t had a burger ever on the menu at Dirt Candy. And I had been against it, to be brutally honest,” says Cohen. “ Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay City Tampa Bay Rays Tampa Bay Buccaneers Tampa Bay Lighting shirt Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt This year’s CFDA Awards were a casualty of the Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt and by the same token and COVID-19 pandemic. Originally scheduled for Monday, June 8, they would’ve kicked off NYFW: Resort and New York’s June men’s collections, both of which were likewise canceled. But the show must go on—virtually at least. This year’s winners will be announced on both CFDA.com and the CFDA’s social channels on Monday, September 14, which is the first day of a shortened New York Fashion Week. It too is shaping up to be a largely digital affair. The awards would’ve been the first presided over by Ford as chairman. He had been planning changes, instituting two new prizes, the global women’s designer of the year and the global men’s designer of the year, to replace the international award, which last year went to Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen. In lieu of the in-person event, we will be prioritizing new and existing programming to support our designer community during the global pandemic—by redirecting efforts towards next-generation scholarships and making important changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry,” said Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA, in the same statement. Racial equity remains an issue in the industry, however. Of the 15 designers nominated in the top American awards categories, only Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Telfar Clemens, and Peter Do are people of color. The emerging designer category is more diverse and includes Christopher John Rogers, who was last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner. Summer has officially arrived as of last week, and while June swiftly turns into July, the days are growing warmer and warmer, thus affecting our closets. This year, the best clothing sales will make it easier to shop for summery pieces like dresses and tops that stand up well in the hot days ahead, understanding that our wardrobes will look a bit different than in year’s past. With so much time spent at home, on-trend pieces like clog sandals (or any kind of special shoe) have quickly taken a backseat to tried-and-true wardrobe essentials, like crisp white dress shirts that will have you Zoom-ready in a pinch, or soft tees that pair well with sweats and jeans. Basics that can be worn day in and day out, whether at home or out and about (following social distancing precautions, of course), have unexpectedly climbed the ranks to become must-haves this summer. Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay Buccaneers road to Super Bowl Champions 2021 shirt Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt Perry Ellis has a lot going for it in 2019. The brand recently launched the Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt it is in the first place but nostalgia-soaked diffusion line called Perry Ellis America, made up exclusively of archival pieces plucked from its ’80s heyday. Think: color-blocked windbreakers, logo’d hoodies, and track pants. (Justin and Hailey Bieber are already fans.) As for the mainline, Perry Ellis has always been a brand known for its prints, and the “look” of this summer was indisputably a boldly printed camp shirt. Guys wore them over T-shirts and girls wore them with bike shorts; it’s a happily unisex trend. Creative Director Michael Maccari said the women in his office frequently shop the collection, and they’ve likely called dibs on the Spring 2020 shirts that mimic abstract paintings. Those shirts merged Maccari’s two key influences: the Luca Guadagnino film A Bigger Splash (set in Sicily and starring Tilda Swinton and Ralph Fiennes) and the artwork of David Hockney. Maccari was designing the collection last fall, just after one of Hockney’s famous swimming pool paintings sold for $90 million, making him the priciest living artist in history (though he was surpassed by Jeff Koons in May). Hockney’s crisp, deeply saturated paintings of water and nature informed the painterly prints, while the artist’s own preppy style informed the “nerdy” knit polos. Buy this shirt:  Tampa Bay Buccaneers go Bucs shirt Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt There’s nothing like a good Philipp Plein show to round off a super-long, super-Saturday of Milan shows. And this was nothing like a good Philipp Plein show. Joke! In fact, this Plein outing was perfectly bearable, and the Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this clothes whisper it had some redeeming features. Following January’s blessedly straightforward reset, at which the centrally located runway featured The Killers and a not-killer but okay collection, Munich’s most famous Ferrari-favoring mountain-buying no longer an infant but eternally terrible Swiss-based (for tax reasons) fashion iconoclast had apparently got the message. This was another show full of bombast and performance, but it zinged along promptly. Unless the looming lightning on the horizon ended things early, it looked like the after-party that was shaping up when we left was going to be fun (for those in the mood). The crowd that was apparently watching from the balcony of the Fondazione Prada alongside were probably not in that mood. Part of Plein’s shtick has always been that he is here to storm the ivory towers such as that Fondazione of fashion. Tonight he sounded like the grizzliest gatekeeper of them all as he spoke at impassioned length of the dangers of over-discounting something that certain shareholder driven online wholesale retailers (naming no names) favor boosting short-term revenue results—in affecting the overall perception of a brand. He was passingly scurrilous, on the purpose of course, about labels that are not his own, but it is not Vogue Runway’s job to stir the pot on others’ behalf. Another subject we got into was his reported efforts to acquire the Roberto Cavalli brand. These turn out to be true, and were the subject, he said, of four months’ focus, but have, for reasons too niche and potentially litigious to Regardless of what era, the material was always very simple and usually white. They liked the dresses to have a lot of style to them, such as pleating. In the Old Kingdom, they usually wore horizontal pleating, whereas, in the New Kingdom, it was generally vertical. During the Middle Kingdom, pleating was much more extensive. Sometimes it would be horizontal with vertical pleating overlapping. How they achieved this pleated look is unknown. During the New Kingdom period it became fashionable for dresses to be pleated or draped. Occasionally women would have feathers and beading across the chest area, but mostly the cloth was bare. They decorated their clothes with details using feather, embroidery, sequin and pieces of jewellery to make them more attractive to the gods and headdresses. Buy this shirt:  Sweat dries blood clots bones heal suck it up buttercup only real girls lift weights t-shirt Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt The major starting point for the Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt also I will do this collection, Vaccarello said at a preview, was Marrakech in the ’70s (YSL was a habituée) reimagined as 21st-century Los Angeles, a city that resides on Vaccarello’s own emotional landscape. (He first visited when he was 14, and there have been many return visits.) While that’s some geographical leap, it’s not an unimaginable one; both locations speak to a yearning for a certain bohemian, free-spirited, almost mystical escape. “You come to L.A. for vacation,” Vaccarello said. “You can disconnect from the rest of the world.” The Morocco-by-way-of-LA-isms were smartly and sparingly deployed throughout the collection and considered flourishes, not theme-gone-wild. The tasseled hoods, djellaba shirting, and embroideries of tiny silver discs suspended from chains amplified the rigor of the classic YSL vestiaire that Vaccarello has been busy exploring (the saharienne, the sharp-as-a-tack tux) as well as the kind of pieces (the bomber, the spencer) that he has introduced into the house’s lexicon. At a time when men’s tailoring is coming back with a vengeance, there was plenty of it here that intrigued, including jackets whose shoulder seams ran on the bias, keeping the line defined, but, apparently, allowing for more comfort and mobility. After all, how else might you convince a generation accustomed to the freedom of streetwear to try tailoring on for the first time and keep it on? The other major reference for the collection was Mick Jagger, circa the Rolling Stones tour of 1975, where the lead singer got to shake a tail feather on stage (and off) in all sorts of glossy and glittery finery. Vaccarello understands, as Jagger did, that a man never looks more masculine than when he’s in satin and sparkle. So he took the opportunity to reference the androgyny of the glam-slam ’70s with one that reflects today: the gleaming black teddy jacket whose sleeves were cut with kimono-like proportions, for instance, or an ivory satin suit, which came with a matching silk shirt left undone save for the knot at the waist. (Jagger, incidentally, who gave Vaccarello access to his vintage YSL, is returning the compliment by wearing some pieces from this collection when the Stones start their U.S. tour later this month, including the cobalt blue-to-black dégradé beaded blouson.) Egyptian clothing, as were clothes from all ancient societies, was made from locally-sourced materials. Egyptian society was one of the earliest agricultural societies. That is why the ancient Egyptians wore light clothes made from linen. Linen is made from flax – a plant that was grown along the Nile. The picture to the right shows the flax growing process. Buy this shirt:  Star Wars Baby Yoda be mine Valentine shirt Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt That made it difficult for Marretta to find much fresh water. For instance, we’d seen the Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt besides I will buy this pool-dappled pattern—which is very attractive—not just at Kors’s Hockney-hashing collection, but also this season at MSGM (in a collection simply enough about summer). Yet that’s not to conclude this was an altogether poor debut from Marretta, who clearly has some serious knitwear petrol in his engine following his time in Milan. The double-face wool-blend track pants and rib-knit sweaters in violently opposing lifeguard-uniform yellow and red were, as he said, fun. So were his pieces of reversible outerwear in checks that mashed Prince of Wales against argyle, which matched his a-lot-like-Birkenstock sandals. The intarsia-homage diving-figure sweater was cute. But if Marretta is going to revisit British culture through his Italian eyes, he should either do it in a completely new manner or find lesser explored but still visually compelling aspects of the culture he has moved from Armani to dive into. “I am no longer an artist; I have become a work of art,” spoke a voiceover in the middle of Prada’s Spring 2020 men’s shoe, held, for the first time off home turf, in Shanghai. (Typically Miuccia Prada prefers to show her collections in the Fondazione Prada in Milan or at her New York office.) Later, the same voice said, “I feel myself a god.” Mrs. Prada has long maintained a reverent relationship with art, supporting and collaborating with her favorite creators, without ever formally declaring herself among their ranks—no word on the god situation. So, what were we to make of the statements pronounced, at techno speed, over a blue-lit runway at the Minsheng Art Wharf? To those at home in the Pradaverse, the words, lifted from Frankie Goes to Hollywood’s Welcome to the Pleasuredome, were Prada subversion at its best. In the show notes unlike her in situ shows, Mrs. P did not assemble journalists for a debrief the collection was described as one of optimism, suggesting that being hopeful can be an antidote for accepting the darkness of our actuality. It’s a continuation of the themes she launched at her recent women’s Resort show in New York, but when presented on male models, it took on a kinkier edge.  I fought my way, using the advantage of having a small body, bending, and shoving until I got there. Okay, I think I see it! The window that a teacher stands behind. I extended my hand with the money, gasping for breath as two big girls squished me from both sides. Buy this shirt:  Some grandpas play bingo real grandpas go drag racing vintage shirt SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt Thus far, the SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt also I will do this shows this week have been a series of experiences. There’s been a bat mitzvah, a supper club performance by Janelle Monáe (with an invite stating a black-and-white dress code, no less), and a moving gospel choir performance inside one of Brooklyn’s oldest, most storied theaters. Some on the circuit is already ringing the death knell for the traditional runway show format, and frankly, the differentiation has helped spice things up on the newly condensed calendar. Private Policy, a label based between Shanghai and New York from Chinese designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu, did the same, opting to show their Spring 2020 unisex label with a live model presentation at a SoHo gallery alongside a series of portraits photographed by Shxpir Huang. After Fashion Week, space will turn into a pop-up shop. The images feature real Asian-American families who all styled themselves in the latest Private Policy lineup, which includes their signature checkered pattern applied to the lapels of baby pink and seafoam green skirt- and short-suit sets. There were cool, raver-Esque harness tops and ring-detailed slip dresses, along with Li and Qu’s usual streetwear tees. They’ve titled their collection “Family Dinner,” and the idea was to highlight the often emotionally intense experience of an Asian-American family gathering around food. More forward-thinking youth will sometimes clash with the elders who are tied to their generational, conservative ideologies. The portraits of the families are meant to showcase just how varied Asian-American families can be: They can have older kids, both the mother and father can work, or two Asian men can get married and start their own family together. That last example is of great importance to Li and Qu, as they want to challenge gender bias and LGBTQ discrimination in their own culture, both at home and in America. I admire Catherine re-wearing so many beautiful dresses. She even has her children wearing hand-me-downs, which is wonderful and practical, but I love the times when all the men and ladies bring out their finest clothes and have their hair styled and royalty exudes a brilliance that Hollywood cannot recreate. Those State dinners are full of glitz and glam, and watching the royals wear their sashes and special pins, which are full of meaning, is otherworldly, almost. Nothing compares. Buy this shirt:  SBLV Kansas City Tampa Bay shirt Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt For years, Marcus Wainwright talked up Rag & Bone’s connection to the Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt but in fact I love this street, emphasizing the off-duty IRL-ness of the clothes. The design team wasn’t inattentive to trends, but it certainly didn’t follow them obsequiously. Tried-and-true essentials were the order of the day. So it was no small development to hear Wainwright say at a visit to the brand’s showroom that there’s “a call for more ‘pushed’ fashion on the men’s side.” As ever at R&B, the foundations are British tailoring, American workwear, a strong Japanese aesthetic most notable via fabrications, and a sports element. But as promised, those foundations were heightened this time around. See the pinstriping on a well-cut coat and the eye-catching color-blocking on strict military shirts, cargo pants, and tennis sweaters. The bomber with “44” embroidered on the arm that President Obama wore to a college basketball game back in February, nearly breaking the Internet in the process, was cut with a new floral-print lining made from Japanese indigo (and sans the 44 detail). Wainwright and co. made excellent use of fabrics sourced from Japan. Pull-on pants in faded indigo cotton managed to look both fashionable and essential at the same time. He should add them to the Rag & Bone women’s collection, for sure.  Rage and alienation: is this Raf Simons’s comfort zone, the place which connects him back, as a 51-year-old man, to the teenage experience his work continually fetishizes? Well, Simons doesn’t have to play nice to any bosses anymore. After his exit from Calvin Klein, he reports only to himself. And what the free Raf Simons wants to say is exactly how much he accuses and despises corporate America. Quite apart from the slogans, it was there rather clearly, breaking through on the soundtrack, a voice which intoned, “Big lie…media America, corporate America…fascist America.” Yes, Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, does wear custom made gowns for special occasions when the ladies pull out their tiaras and jewels and high heels. For the State Dinner at Buckingham Palace, Catherine wore a white ruffled gown by Alexander McQueen. No recycled outfits for a night like this. Buy this shirt:  Saint Patrick Being an American is a choice being a Trish American is an honor shirt Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt Houseago was just one in a chorus of creative voices that harmonized around this collection. Although there were some very overtly personal and Mexican touches, such as sequins reflecting China Poblana festival wear and the Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt also I will do this Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers’ association, for whose Mexican migrant pickers Owens’s father often worked as a translator in the California courts (these garments and a piece of jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW), he said he was very careful to avoid the folkloric side of Mexican culture. Instead, he said, he had become fascinated with the effect of Mexican culture on the work of Josef and Anni Albers, the subject of a recent-ish show at the Guggenheim. Owens expounded: “I loved that combination of modernism with something so ancient. Looking at the drawings they made that were inspired by the sites was the Mexico angle I wanted.” With the exception of some Perspex-heeled platforms and rough tire-sole cowskin sandals that caused much trepidation as the models descended steps while keeping their eyes fixed on the pit, it was also a collection abrim with highly wearable pieces. Personally I loved the cotton jackets in a black and white set with austere, angled grids of ribbon and lacing, which was sometimes reflected in a riot of lacing on a Veja collab sneaker and looped into the fabric of some loose wool track pants. The sequins incorporated one-color oversize tailoring and looked pleasingly sleazy, while metallic-finished outerwear boasted a brutal industrial shimmer. In collaboration with Champion, Owens primitivized its cotton jersey via transformation into togas and loincloths. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in the clothing created by Owens. The convenient accessibility to my sister’s lingerie paved the way for me to experiment which I inevitably did when home alone one day. Whilst it was a most exciting and somewhat of a nerve-wracking experience due to it being my first experience trying on panties and a slip, I was also thrilled at how the panties felt and how they looked on me when I checked in the mirror. The nylon and lace slip enhanced even further the delightful silky feeling of the silky nylon panties. The two layers of silky nylon lingerie felt so wonderfully good I did not want to take them off. Buy this shirt:  Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 shirt Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt besides I will buy this New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change.  Federico Curradi is finding his groove at Rochas. This annoyingly standing-format show (how to type?) was packed full of engaging all-organic garments, soft and flowing, and bohemian. Curradi said he’s trying to make an artist’s wardrobe and who doesn’t want to look like an “artist,” right? Since decamping to Paris from Florence, he’s tried to suffuse himself in Frenchness, and for this collection consulted Ed van der Elsken’s Love on the Left Bank and Helena Janeczek’s The Girl With the Leica what a story with which to conjure atmospheric touches to his garments. Inspired by Gerda Taro’s bravery and resolve (if you don’t know it, please Google her story; it’s amazing), he incorporated soft embroidery detailing on weathered military-uniform-inspired trenches and shirting in silk and cotton. Noticing my sisters panties and slips on the clothesline drying after washing and my mother neatly folding her panties and ironing her slips after the washing was brought in, kept building my interest and gave me persisting thoughts about panties and slips until it reached the stage where inexorably I felt compelled to explore trying on panties and a slip. Buy this shirt:  Peace Love Bernie Sanders t-shirt Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Most of this, though, was derived directly from the Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black Besides,I will do this work emerging from Ruby’s sprawling California studio complex. The printed dresses and shirting featured imagery of candles and weeds shot by Ruby’s wife, Melanie Schiff. One model wore a vinyl tabard bearing the lurid coverwork of a book entitled Hex, a 1972 examination of pow-wow and murder in the Pennsylvania Dutch community amidst which he was partially raised. This childhood influence presumably also influenced the Mennonite-style dresses in bleached denim. Ruby said the stalagmite-like U.S. flag decals on his denim pieces reflected certain sculpted works; Ruby-philes will doubtless recognize many more entanglements between his artistic body of work and the beginning of this new one as they look at these clothes. Arguably the boldest element of all on show tonight was the act of a famed contemporary artist transitioning into the world of fashion design. Fashion traditionally tugs its forelock at contemporary art, while contemporary art is happy to take fashion’s sponsorship cash and revel in its assumed superiority in the creative hierarchy. Ruby, conversely, seems to be genuinely enthused by this new aspect of his practice, and who is to say his fashion will not prove as lucrative as his art? This “collection” is, in fact, not one but four collections: Some pieces went immediately on sale, see-now-buy-now style, and are presumably the fashion equivalents of print editions. Buy this shirt:  Across Cultures Darker T-shirts Black

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